Alfano 6 Ka100 EGT Carb Tuning

Hi Everyone,

   We have a Ka100/ HW33a w an Alfano6. Were new at this. I guess i have 2 questions
  1. How do i tune the carb based on what the Alfano tells me the low and high EGT temps are? I’m not sure which screw to turn based on the info, and id prefer to not waste a practice day finding out the hard way. The Alfano will ( example) tell me the high was 1200 and the low 500. I know i should be around 1150ish. Im not sure how to get there. Another person at the track told me my high was too high and my low was too low. I don’t want to assume adjust the low side for the low number etc.

  2. The Alfano ada program when i look at the data only shows the low number when i look at the session data and never the high number? Is there a way to see that or am i looking at that incorrectly?

Shoot for the number your builder tells you on high. Generally, as long as the egt keeps climbing, you can keep leaning the high to an extent.

Low speed, we ignore the low number and tune the needle by feel/ear. Open it up until it 4 cycles then lean her down a tick.

Basically what @CrocIndy said. 1150 is a good number to aim for on the high end, but ask your engine builder what they prefer. Everyone has a little different temp they want to see. Screw the high speed needle in (tightening it) to lean it down and make the temp go up. Screw the high speed needle out (loosening it) to give it more fuel and cool it down. We usually adjust in increments of 1/8 of a turn or so. Doesn’t take much.

I also don’t pay much attention to the low number. If you’re new and not rolling enough corner speed, that number might be skewed anyway.

Ty for the info. Dont exactly have an engine builder as this ka i bought from ebay as it was someone’s spare motor still in the original plastic, and were not at a place yet where im ready to either send this one out or get a “comet” motor. I agree on the low end, as my driver is not yet comfortable enough to bang through corners. That’s actually what our last several practice days have been focused on, and were getting there slowly but surely. Thank you for the confirmation, i didn’t want to assume the high side for for the high temp, as i have been trying to find the correct info and have had a hard time. i was also confused as to why i cant see the high end data in the alfano software after i download, just the low side. Unless im looking it wrong or something?

I guess i will have to start fattening the high end since i’m hitting 1200. I do have the correct Tillson tool to adjust needles and ill keep notes between sessions as to the changes made. As for the “feel” for the low side. I have a newbie 13 year old driving so getting a straight answer from and not completely confident experienced driver has been a hurdle…lol. Ty for your response :slight_smile:

I’m not super familiar with the Alfano data analysis interface, so can’t really help there.

The Alfano uses an open tip probe (like the ones you see on the new X30 pipe), most guys on KA’s use the cheap, closed tip sensors from Aim. The Alfano will read 100 to 150 degrees higher on the high reading than the closed tip, the low reading will be the same. In other words, you can’t go by what other guys tell you unless they are using the same egt probe. 1,200 is definitely not too high with an Alfano. 500 on the low is pretty low…but like TJ said, that number can be skewed by rolling speed. Roughly speaking with an open top probe, you should shoot for 750 low and 1,300 high. Remember egt’s are very dependent on the rpm’s you achieve at any given track, and whether you are running a Jr or Sr setup.

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The probe i’m using is A2151 – Pro Quality, made in Germany…I got the higher-end one…am i running the wrong probe?
“The Pro is more “sensitive” and oscillates faster in temperature, providing a more precise reading. Where the standard quality takes longer to pick up the temperature and may not read the peak values as precise.”

Next dumb question. What’s the difference between the [ALFANO EXHAUST TEMP. SENSOR] and the [ALFANO LAMDA SENSOR]

Lambda is an O2 sensor.

Should i be running both or just the egt is fine?

EGT is enough. A Lambda setup requires extra equipment (beyond the probe) and an external power supply to heat the probe, along with the knowledge to interpret the data. You also need a dedicated pipe with a lambda bung, as you can’t race with a lambda probe or a pipe with more than one welded bung.

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Thank you the info i really appreciate it :slight_smile:

Man I LOVE our Alfano and have found ours with the standard quality sensor reads about 50 degrees lower than the Aim.

But the fact that i can see the data right there in my phone sitting in the grid, make the changes, and send my driver back out to see results has been super time saving! I can get twice the tuning in a session than before with the Mychron ( not to Aim bash or anything). But yes there are differences in the data that i noticed running them literally l back to back.

I tried running both of them on the kart at the same time but the RPM leads interfered with each other even though they werent touching and were routed on completely different sides of the kart for deconfliction.

Alfano all the way in my opinion, so i just pulled off the mychron and sold it.

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Hi, I’ve had an Alfano 6 for several years, what engine do you have? X30?
Depending on the engine you can go above 1200.
If ADA is not showing you the highest EGT temperature you need to update the Alfano, then it will show the lowest, the highest EGT and everything in between, just update the software.
As mentioned above, a lambda sensor won’t connect directly to the Alfano, you need a module to act as Bridge between the sensor itself and the Alfano, having said that no one that I know uses a lambda sensor, although it is in my opinion the best tool to tune a 2-stroke engine, the problem is that the sensor won’t last too long, you’ll have to replace it once in awhile, and as mentioned before, not allowed during championships.

Hi – I’m not getting a response to my question posted on the “Micron + EGT” thread, so maybe I’ve selected the wrong place to ask (even though I’m asking about a VLR 100 not a KA 100 and even though I’m asking about a Micron 5S - 2t not an Alfano 6). So, here goes:
As mentioned above, the EGT varies depending on the sensor. QUESTION: With a T12 installed in a VLR 100 pipe, what should the maximum EGT be per lap for best performance AND what should the minimum EGT be for the same lap? For reference, I have been advised and I have been tuning the two jets not to exceed 1200 degrees max. However, I’ve gotten very conflicting advice on the minimum EGT. Some advise as low as 750, others as high as 1000. Does it matter if the engine “sounds good” throughout the lap or is 1000 too lean at the low end and, thus, dangerous to the engine?

Always listen to whatever your engine builder tells you. They’ve dialed in what EGT works best with how they’ve built and tuned your engine, with the fuel you’re running as well.

I don’t know about the VLR, but generally if the low-speed is too lean, it just won’t run properly (hesitation), so you’ll know it’s off before anything bad happens. I couldn’t even tell you what my minimum EGTs ever are, it’s not something I look at.

Do you turn the L needle during a race to tune it?
To me understanding, the L is important from 0 to 1/4 throttle (from apex to track/ out) and above that is the H needle. There is some overlap.

Thanks TJ; common sense input as always. Stephen, I try to set my LS so that I have crisp throttle response, and then forget it. I only adjust the HS thereafter to get close to 1200 degrees

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You can get to 1250 no problems as long as you are using a decent oil and as long as you warm up the engine thoroughly.
Then, as long as you’re flying out of the corners, you can forget the L temperatures, as every track will give you different Low EGT depending on how fast or slow the corners are, and depending on how far into the corners you can carry the throttle, basically depending on how good you are… So, once you set the L properly, off you go!!
Have fun!