Getting started

Hi guys looking to get into karting and starting out I. Tag restricted wondering with the x30 and Rotax are they better suit to certain chassis or is that more of the drivers preference.

Also do you need to have the lap timing and data logging or is that more for when your trying to fine tune your racing to get them extra hundreds of a second down.

I’m in to minds weather I get a new chassis and engine and practice,race and get the other bits and pieces down the track or look to get a good second hand kart with all the bits on it.


Rotax / x30 is entirely driver preference, they both fit quite happily onto the same chassis.
Data logging in itself isn’t important, however what is VITAL is temperature monitoring which is done by the same unit. If something happens to your water pump, you blow a hose at the back maybe (you won’t know) you’ll keep running until you seize the engine. A simple cheap fix will turn quickly into a super expensive engine teardown.

New or old? Me I bought a cheap chassis with a Rotax engine, practiced on it until the engine blew one day (i wasn’t running a datalogger…) swapped that out for x30 which for me is better in that it’s not sealed. Bought a new chassis and second x30 at the start of the following season. Looking forward to next season immensely :smiley:

I would lean toward following a similar route - if you’re running a practice kart that wasn’t crazy expensive (mine was $1200) then you’re not gonna cry if you smash it over a kerb and bend the frame. When you’re getting decent times and a good line, invest in a good machine.

Hi Richard Thanks for the response when you say the x30 isn’t a sealed engine does that mean you can rebuild them yourself when they need to be done, what chassis did you buy to start with did you try any out or they all pretty similar and is more about how they are setup, is their a cheap option for the temp sensor other the Mychron and Alfano stuff

Yes mate not sealed means you can maintain the engine yourself. Rotax you have to send it to an authorised shop to do anything, even change the reeds. If you’ve any engineering savviness you’ll be able to quite happily do everything on it, including piston changes. Crank changes are a bit deep - I still send it out for those. X30 maintenance requirements are higher granted, but you can mostly do it yourself.

I took tried a couple of chassis at my local track - but buying the Kart I essentially was offered an Energy Kinetic which is pretty sound. Not perfectly straight but not enough to affect my (in)ability lol. When I got my time down enough to pass the CIK licensing test I took a new CRG which I love.

Sorry forgot to answer the temperature question. Shouldn’t be too difficult if you only need to monitor overheating - you’d just need to find a temperature switch the right size and run a power wire through it to an LED on the wheel and back to -ve. Bear in and the temperature bulb that comes with the engine is a transducer not a switch, it tells the cataloguer the actual temperature - you configure the data logger with the temperature you want it to warn you. I have it set to 80 (one LED - back off and pit) and 90 (second LED - stop on track and get recovered)

Not sure about Rotax but X30 needs to run around 50-60 deg C, higher or lower is equally bad for it, here in the desert I don’t really have to worry about lower temps, if you’re not going to be karting when it less than say 20 degrees outside, just rig up an overheat alarm light with a temperature switch that triggers about 80 degrees. It’ll take a little bit of engineering but do-able.

The two engines drive differently, for starters (top end x30, bottom end Rotax). But, both are great in their own way. I loved my x30, because I love me a nice sounding engine that howls on the top end. Rotax sounds like an angry Roomba.

Buuuuut, rotax is way cheaper to run. Top end goes forever.

Can you tell us more about the Karting scene around you. Where are you located @Bentcoyote?

Rotax being cheaper to run depends where you are I guess. Here in UAE I can change the X30 top end myself 7 times for the same cost of the (only 1 in the country) Rotax shop doing it once. Yes Rotax top end lasts longer, but no way it lasts 7 times longer :slight_smile:

:rofl: angry Roomba hahaha

That may well be the case, also.
I think generally the rotax is less expensive to run as a club engine. The maintenance is less frequent overall. Also, can’t it be run on pump gas?

Location again. I run X30 on pump gas (98) same as goes in my steed. Only difference X30 uses 4% oil vs 2% Rotax

@Bentcoyote as evidenced from the exchange between me and @Richard_Jacques either engine is fine. There’s subtlety in engine package choice but its basically down to what is commonly run at your track.

Yeap absolutely. Each has its own merits and downside, very much drivers preference. Either way you’ll have a TON of fun

I’m from Canberra Australia and their seems to be a mix of x30 and Rotax engines, thanks for the info think I’ll leaning more towards the x30 as I enjoy doing my own rebuilds,


Does Australialand IAME offer discount if you chop your Rotax in against an X30? When I blew mine up I cracked it open and did a very basic rebuild to get it just about running, IAME offered me a handsome 33% discount on a new X30 with all the ancillaries, all I had to do was give them my Rotax so they could toss it lol. No brainer. Just thinking if you manage to find a decent chassis to kick off with but with an old non ego Rotax engine, you could save yourself a few bucks and have a rocket ship to practice on. They don’t publish it anywhere BTW - ask your dealer directly.

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That’s pretty funny and a good incentive to make the swap from Rotax I will have a look into it,