I changed my plan on pedals 
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Whatcha get? Asetek?
Simagic. The hydro brake is amazingly smooth.
These two laps have different setups and the fixed setup blue trace is way slower than our Daytona 24 setup, but the ability to modulate over the V3s is pretty clear here:
So what you are saying is I need to spend money.
Scale of 1-10?
I’d probably give them a 9, only because the software is that weird not ever quite finished Chinese variety. As always time will tell but I also know they didn’t reinvent any seals to make the hydraulics so repairs should be easy. Simagic is reported to be good with working with their dealers to solve problems and have made a few revisions to the pedals over the past couple of years.
All machined aluminum. 3 load cells. Adjustable leverage points and pedal plate heights on all 3. Throttle is adjustable damper based, brake hydraulic with springs, clutch has a bite point feel and spring tuned.
Brake load cell is available in 100 or 200KG. I got the 100. Pedal has some firmness but also has a good amount of travel before going solid as the springs coil bind. There is 6 springs to choose from to build your stack with and adjustable preload. Pedals are bearing equipped and are connected to the master/throttle damper with rod ends.
Software has similar function to heusinvelds, with adjustable pedal curving, dead zones, and brake force. Once adjusted in the software it is written to the control box and software doesn’t need to run. What that also means is curving doesn’t affect calibration and you can adjust without having to do setup in your sims.
I also got the optional carbon foot plate, heel stop, and throttle pedal brace, which I definitely like since my foot would always end up off the side of the V3s.
Those seem great. I guess the plan to save money went right out the window. That or you couldn’t bring yourself to do it (the combo you mentioned).
I don’t see a master cylinder. Are the brakes hydraulic?
P2000?
heres what I’d need
I am guessing the ding dong on the brake is the master cylinder.
Its a $20 diff between the 100 and 200KG version for the two pedal set.
One way for me to justify this would be its 1/10th the cost of a lightly used complete x30 and Nats roller in 2018 dollars.
Yes the master is right on the brake pedal.
P2000 is the model.
Big reason was going a month without any communication until I initiated the cancel request. And the hydraulics kinda sucked me in.
I went with the 100 because my knee still isn’t right, and I struggled to max out my V3s at times. With the spring tunability on these and actually having a pedal that moves I got to a setting that was comfortable quickly. There really is a decent amount of travel to modulate before the pedal gets hard. My understanding is that to start getting use out of the 200 takes the blue/green spring combo and putting the push rod pivot at the top two holes.
That’s it for me. I’m focusing on sim racing and if I happen to make it to the track then that’s that.
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They are actually pretty darn affordable in the realm of hydraulic stuff and have me very intrigued. Seeing as how I do so little racing these days, maybe I’ll join you in this. Then other thing I need to do is get my sarong (edit: I’m leaving this typo in) position dialed. I need to move pedals out further but have to figure out how. Seating not Sarong, lol.
Not Dom in a Sarong:
Nice abs, pal.
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For a small fee, I would consider modeling a sarong for the class but I don’t have the abs to pull it off.
My guess is that you didn’t have the BPK on those V3s, or they were poorly setup. No way you are getting to 100% brake force if they are setup properly
These pedals are way cooler, imho. Also, hydraulic. @zipty842 did you sell the v3 yet?
Also, you know rhe fanatec control panel program? It’s says on it that “brake rumble” will only work with v3.
Yet I noticed, lock up brakes with my v2 rumbles the DD.
I do have the BPK. No matter what combo I tried it felt like either mush or a brick on off switch.
With the BPK I always had to turn them down to about 85%. The way my knee recovered after two rods in my leg will not let me press on those things with any smoothness.
They are sitting on my shelf still. Sure we could make a v3/g2 deal 
has the performance kit and the throttle damper.
Vibe motors on them work like the wheel. Also if you set BLI on the wheel to I think 100, iRacing can control
them directly from wheel slip data.
Aha! Let’s make a deal then. New toys for the boys sounds like fun. I’ll
send you the g2 this weekend,already boxed it up. If you don’t like, no worries, we can figure something else out.
Realistically g2 is available for 399 regularly and I bet the v3 a bit more expensive so we can figure out what makes sense.
That sounds good. These are the same plus I added the damper and BPK which was about another 100, but I was gonna throw them on eBay for 300 anyway having used them or a year.
Pm me your address and I can get them out tomorrow.
I did not notice this one, I was so in the groove
Been working at this for a while, refining and trying to be as efficient as I can. One of the big challenges I have faced is the final turn. It is a tricky downhill turn, with some odd camber and the slope of it changes as you travel through the turn. It requires you to tip-toe assertively through it, finding the right time and place to apply power. My natural tendency is to go wide, pushing too fast into the entry.
Tonight, I think I found it, understanding the turn and being able to execute, repeatedly. I was able to hit .04x over and over again, which is about as fast as I can go, hitting a new low of .042. Funny thing is I think, now, that I can maybe do a .9x. As good as my turns were, I can sense that there’s still a little left in it.
Anyways, on to answering the next big question, which still eludes me, which entry into S2 is best? How do I get consistently 5.1x there instead of setting for .2’s. It has to do with how hard you go into the first complex and how you keep it down to the apex, without being late to throttle. It is tricky, and my next big challenge.
Anyways, I was so mesmerized by the final turn and the general flow of things that I did not notice doing this. When I quit for the night, I saw that I had moved up 2 spots on the leaderboard, which was a pleasant surprise.
Fanatec DD “klonk” noise when striking kerbs
The fanatec DD makes a banging noise when you hit a kerb. I originally thought that this was working as intended, but the other day I saw someone on Reddit talking about it.
Apparently it’s not coming from the DD but rather from the quick release mechanism. The DD sends a big hit vibration to the steering wheel, and the QR somehow can’t handle it, and the steering wheel flexes and you get that bang noise.
Turns out there is a threaded hole on the QR and you can use a pretty standard rig bolt to crank the QR contact all the way down. It sort of defeats the idea of a QR but it works. No more bang.
There’s a better solution. I just put them in mine this week.
My clunkiest QR is dead silent now.
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they had to make a compromise between the strength of the spring and people being able to get the wheel off. With enough force the spring will compress slightly and it slapping back makes the noise. Some do it more than others probably due to the different batches of springs.