LO206 Question

Well I’ve been officially moved into college at Indianapolis for about a month now, and I would enjoy racing at the NCMP club and WRP. Neither of them have a KA class, and next year I really don’t want to put that time on my motor anyways, as I’ve already gone through two top end rebuilds this year.

I was planning on jumping in at the 206 class out here, as they pull 30 to 40 entries every weekend. It’s going to be rough giving up the power and sticky, or at least stickier, tires, but the racing should be worth it.

I was looking at the Comet Kart Sales website, and they have box stock 206 motors for $600. They also have a “race prepped” 206 for $750. I was just wondering if those are even worth getting. I dont want to spend a ton of money on this, and I thought the 206 was pretty consistent from the factory, so I just wanted to know what the general consensus was from everyone else.

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Usually the race prep is a second checkover (floats, valve clearance etc) after transport, sometimes a dyno run and a breakin.

To be honest I think it’s money well spent for someone who’s competitive. You don’t have to do it at all, it’s personal choice really. But it’s not so much to get more performance, but ensure it’s up to par after getting knocked around in its box

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Good luck with college!


@Aaron_Hachmeister_13 I would spend the $150. With that, you are getting a set up that is ready to mount up and go. You don’t have to do it but it’s a guarantee that it’ll be right. Really all you need to do is set the valves, float and make sure it idles.:slight_smile:

You will need a new mount to go on the DR, that will be in the $200-250 range new but you’ll see them used for less. You can get a new clutch for $125-150. Comet may also have a complete package deal too.

Make sure your axle is keyed inboard though most being made now are.

They run YLC at NCMP so you should have some of those from RA. Not sure what Whiteland will be doing for tires with the new ownership.

Come out to NCMP for Cup Grands next week and say hello. Unless you are racing than good luck and hopefully you and Randy have some fun!

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I’ll probably stop by! I was thinking about running it but the team isn’t going out so I figured against it.

I’ll have to get a spare frame, but that shouldn’t be too hard. I’ll check out their complete package and see what else they need.

Unfortunately I dont have any YLC’s left over, I’ve gotten rid of all of them from before but i’ll see what I can find.

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There is a NCMP page on FB. Check it out. I’m sure there are plenty of take offs etc that you can get your hands on.

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The Comet 206’s are done by Gary Lawson. He is the man. But more important than that is he will be at the club races there and will help you with anything regarding that engine if it has a Comet sticker on it. Money well spent, and I have never seen another 206 faster than the Comet 206’s he has done.

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Another question, is a MyChron necessary for 206? It has a rev limiter, so I don’t need to worry about RPM’s, and I don’t really need lap times when I’m racing other drivers. I just really don’t feel like buying another MyChron for a kart I’m only using for club races with a 206 motor.

Just buy a used 3 then. Surely you’ll want a way to look at consistency during and between runs,
not to mention min RPM.

Another question, is a MyChron necessary for 206? It has a rev limiter, so I don’t need to worry about RPM’s, and I don’t really need lap times when I’m racing other drivers. I just really don’t feel like buying another MyChron for a kart I’m only using for club races with a 206 motor.

The humble 206 may seem ‘simple’ compared to a TaG or other 2-stroke, but having data on the engine is always helpful compared to having none.

CHT, RPM min/max, and of course any sort of data is quite a powerful tool.

is there much difference between ( handling, performance etc.) the Margay ignite and the Margay Brava 206?


Lap times determine my gear… You pretty much gear for the rev limiter at a certain point on the track or just hitting the limiter at the end of the longest straight depending on where you’re running, how the infield is laid out, etc. The lap times tell you if the change was good or not.

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The brava has way more adjustability than the ignite. You can make all the same adjustments but there are is a little more adjustment in the brava.

I’d say you don’t as much gear for the rev limiter as the primary target but rather gear for clutch engagement first with fine tuning for the rev limiter.

It really depends on the track. Typically on sprint tracks you’ll ride the limiter, but it depends. The lower the speed differential between the longest straight and the slowest turn is probably not going to use any clutch slip. So really your clutch only matters if you’re doing a standing start.

Good example is rock island.

Now if you have a top speed at 55, and a slowest apex of 25 you’re going to be riding the limiter, slipping the clutch or both depending on the turn make up. If there’s just one 25mph turn you might be better of slipping the clutch. If there’s a couple, you might endup overheating the clutch… so you’re better of on the limiter.

Critical corners, slowest turn, length of longest straight, gradients all come into play and trying to account for it is overwhelming,

So: Experiment, make changes, note observations, make more changes… Rinse and repeat. Don’t just look at lap times, also look at segments so that you have data to make changes for different conditions. There are times where the fastest gear (on lap times) will hurt you in situations where you are starting at the back and carving through the field for example.

Yes, I agree. What I meant is for more of a starting point if you’re not sure what ratio to start at.

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