New Kart chassis “blueprinting”

Is chassis “blueprinting” a common practice? Thinking about engine blueprinting… it’s essentially closing the gap between manufacturing tolerances and racing tolerances. I’m sure it’s applied to chassis also?

I’ve seen it mentioned that sometimes new chassis benefit from at least a check on the flat table before being assembled.

Anyone on here bothered with it or maybe ran with a team that did it standard practice.

Not uncommon for karts to be slightly off from the factory. I’ve seen a variety of karts laser out differently out of the box, some dead even, some slightly out.

I’ve seen a few teams that will table every chassis out of the box.

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aint nobody got time for that GIF


I believe all manufacturers are striving to perfect their karts in some way, but some definitely excel more than others. It’s not just about having a chassis that’s flawless right out of the box; it’s also about how the kart performs from the very beginning. Take seat position, for instance. It’s far more critical than a slight tweak to the chassis.

Let’s consider my situation as an example. Many manufacturers, particularly those based overseas, provide a seat position guide. However, for someone like me, these guides are virtually useless. I stand 6’5", but my legs never got the memo, so I’m effectively 6’ tall. I have the torso of a giant and the build of a fullback. The OTK seat guide? It doesn’t even come close to helping me achieve the right corner weight. And even if by some miracle it does, my upper body weight throws off the balance in every corner.

Conversely, some American manufacturers offer personalized fittings. They assist you in achieving the correct corner balance and provide tips on setting up your frame. This approach is less about “blueprinting” and more akin to getting fitted for golf clubs. This is where the expertise of a team or manufacturer can significantly impact your success on the track.

At Swift Karting and Fabrication, we are continually striving to enhance this aspect, ensuring our customers get the best performance out of their karts. We understand the importance of a tailored approach, recognizing that every driver has unique requirements.


I think that’s a very fair assessment. Getting the kart right for your body is the key component. Without that, adjustments and tuning will only do so much.

I personally always calibrate and aligned my kart right out of the box or even the team’s truck because it can always change so slightly and turn into a bigger problem.

We always put ours on the table to check first. Most are fine. Every once in a while they are off.

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First curb you take is gonna undo everything you wasted time “blueprinting” tho…

I just beat the bloody hell out of one of our house chassis at a street race and it never missed a beat. I tagged barriers on exits and apexes at least 5 times a session. Bent the steering shaft and just kept on sending it. Never lost a tenth of a second until the last final when the valves started leaking from having about 10 hours on a brand new engine.


We’ll touch the valves up and replace the steering shaft, take it straight to Whiteland, and run great times with it without even tabling it.

We also take the BirelART chassis straight out of the box, set the toe/camber/widths, then to the track and put em on the steps.


I’m gonna have to agree with @CrocIndy on this one, we usually pull them out check alignment and send 'em. Realistically if you wanted to ensure they’re straight you’d want to put a session or two on them to kind of break them in, after they’re flexed on track they will kind of settle and then you can check. We usually don’t check them however until they’ve been in an accident, the scales show an imbalance, or a major driving issue.

You hit the nail on the head my one son is 6ft 4 an I have come up with all kind of set ups for different tracks. Have heard comments like he leans to much when cornering well when you have a large frame hanging over the seat that happens. He also likes a stiffer kart like 32 mm where as most are running 30 mm may have to do with the leverage. I have made extended porch extenders has helped but offsets the front weight from what it should be. Sometimes you need to think outside the box.

We ran my last brand new chassis a couple sessions to let it settle then went right to the table. Had to correct caster in the c-section. Wasn’t much point in getting everything perfect until then. Just got the general alignment right out-of-the-box and sent it.

Compkart has a really nice chassis table so we have been checking it at the end of every practice/raceday. After it settles it really doesn’t move much unless there is a good curb strike or kart contact.


Yeah as many have noted above, the kart will spring back a bit after a session or two so if you’re going to table the thing, you should probably run it in a few sessions first. I check the alignment out of the box, send it, and then if it needs correction later we worry about it then.

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Not sure I’ve ever done this.
Throw the seat in, get a baseline setup on the kart and just drive the thing!


I have found this Monaco Kart Owners manual a fairly useful, obviously it’s pretty general in nature but will help give someone with little experience a starting point and gives the effects of various changes.

At the end Remo gives his “blueprinting” the chassis tips.
Remo has won a couple of things in his life so maybe worth reading (sarcasm)