Hey guys,
So one common thing that every karter asks for is the setup guide for their chassis, so let’s create a thread where we put the links to what we find here! Post any link to a setup guide that you find on the internet, and I’ll update the root post with the list.
If I can’t find the official chassis setup guide, then I’m going to post the next closest thing. If you know where a better one is, post it below. I’ll going to update this list as we find things, so just post what you know.
Here’s the one I wrote for Merlin several years ago. Might be slightly outdated now and I know there was a few things I wanted to change in the axle section, but for the most part there’s some good basic info in there.
Do not confuse lift with grip. Drivers often refer to karts as having “too much grip” or “not enough grip”.
In reality, a kart with “too much grip” actually has a case of “not enough lift”. The feeling of ”too much grip” occurs when the inside rear wheel is not lifting off the track >for whatever reason. It is important to differentiate the two
I know anything from OTK, Kosmic, Exprit, FA (Alonso), and RedSpeed are all the same as far as I’m aware, and old Trulli karts when they were a thing. Praga, OK1, and Formula K should all be the same as well, except apparently steering geometry is different?? Idk about that last piece though. Arrow and Deadly kart are the same supposedly as well. Not sure about any other companies
Yeah the overlap in designs seems to be a hot topic. Especially with so few actual manufacturers of chassis. They do have different lines and frames they make of course, but the lines between facts and embellsihement are a bit blurred at times.
Some folks might say a DR is a CRG in red
Back when Kosmic came out in the 90’s it was supposedly “A tonykart with softer metal”
Etc etc.
One thing that’s always been interesting about OTK is their axle reccomendations are opposite to others.
I think I remember hearing it’s because the chassis is softer than the axle on the Tony Karts, as opposed to the axle being softer than the chassis. It might be backwards, and I’m sure Koyen can clarify but that’s what I remember. I think Arrow is the same way according to a driver from the Badger Club
Yeah that’s been my theory. I have zero hard evidence supporting that though. Just speculation based on testing.
The function of the axle and chassis stiffness should be the same from kart to kart though. If the kart isn’t lifting enough, something is too stiff somewhere, whether it’s the actual frame or axle. Stiffness has to be removed from one or the other. Or better traction on the outside tire has to be achieved. It’s up to the driver/tuner to determine whether that means going stiffer or softer on the axle.
Regarding the axle section of IPK setup sheet, it’s my understanding the RGF axle is also referred to as the “MR” or “Medium Race” stiffness. Some of the IPK info I’ve seen has it listed as one step stiffer than the Medium, but others list it as one step softer. Does anyone know which is correct?
I wouldn’t believe that. Formula K just won the opening round in ROK Shifter at Pompano, won ROK Vegas, and took third at SKUSA SuperNats against the best drivers in the world. I’m not sure why you’d say they’re obsolete. They’re still probably the sixth or seventh largest kart manufacturer out there.
TJ, Liked this a lot and thinking how the IR lifts is probably the best concept to understand how to tune a kart. Do you think that your write-up on Merlin generally would apply to an OTK kart?
