Spindle nylocks - installing/removing/replacing

How long do folks typically keep spindle nylocks? Does anyone use anti-seize/wax or some other thread lubricant?

I had a nylock seize up on a spindle (was using hand tools but may have been going too fast?). It really sucked and the spindle ended up wrecked with bad thread galling. I want to understand better what I did wrong and how to prevent this.

Don’t know about other people, but I’ve never had a spindle nut seize. I’m assuming your are inquiring about the nut that holds the wheel on. Guessing that you are over tightening the nut. After installing the nut with the nylon insert, there should be some end play on the spindle shaft that allows a small amount of lateral movement of the wheel. Also, you should be able to rotate the spacers on the spindle. Over tightening the nut is going to generate heat.

Nylock main spindle nut usually a 22mm or so generally won’t lock up unless it has been like corrosion from years of no movement. I would guess its far more likely the nylock came apart and nylon locked the threads when trying to remove when this happens you should tighten back on and use a wire brush to clean threads if that’s not an option use heat, lots of heat.

I had everything off 2 weeks before to check alignment after a crash. I’m not sure if a curb hit could damage things b/c we had curb hits in the sessions right before it seized. Or if the right hand wheel can over tighten itself just from driving? I’ve heard now nylocks can seize from hand tools if you take them off too fast (too much friction/heat).

I had this happen one time on Birel first day on track about 20 years ago. We had to cut spindle to save the wheel, at the cost of destroying spindle. Since then I check new parts to make sure the thread does not have a bur.

You really couldn’t get a nylock nut off? Even with a gun?

That’s interesting and something I’ve never encountered as the nylon is so soft compared to the metal.

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It had nothing to do with the nylon. I loosened nut a few turns and then galled. I eventually with enough force was able to turn it, but it just ate itself and stripped in place. In 20+ years of racing it is the only time I have experienced it or hear of it. I suspect some studs that break pulling exhaust off a car probably happen for same reason.

It really was weird. It gave no signs of problems when I put the nut on. It really sucked. It was first time out with that new kart

It was a pretty sucky experience. The nylon creates friction and heat when removed. If the nuts are stainless they may be more prone to galling. We have a Margay with an anodized castle nut and pin and I like that system a lot more than the giant nylocks.

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When it happened to me I put the nut on and off with a ratchet, so I would be surprised if I generated much heat, but could have. My assumption it was stainless nut and had a flaw, and as you said they gall easier. I ran 3 different Birel karts with the same system and only had the problem once. Still I do like the Margay method better. Easy to make a quick change on the grid.