Steps to getting into 2 stroke karting

I am looking to get involved in 2 stroke karting. I have been looking at the Northeastern Karting Challenge and that seems like what I would go with.

I started with K1 leagues a year and a half ago, and am currently leading my league, and for the past half a year I have been doing the NJMP rental league and have been winning and am also currently leading the current league there as well. In short I am very fast in real karting and it is getting a little boring now.

I have an extensive knowledge of how to work on things and I am very good with my hands. I also pick up on how to do things relatively fast so as far as the mechanical work, I feel good with doing it myself.

Questions:

How do I plan out what I need to buy before the season, ie. what spares, tools. I know I will need to buy a trailer and obviously a kart.

What is the time commitment for working on your kart.

What is the first year costs vs second year costs.

How would one mentally and physically prepare for karting at a higher level (I imagine that it must be way more physical than rental)

Should I start with 100cc, or go directly to 125cc

Where is the best place to buy kart parts and the actual parts.

Is there anything else I should be aware of, or any advice.

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I would take a step back and determine your short- and long-term karting goals. Are you looking to just run practice days? Are you looking to primarily run club races, or do you plan to race in regional or national events?

Answers to these questions help determine a lot of things:

  1. Which chassis to purchase, and should you go new or used
  2. Which motor to run. KA is a popular motor for some clubs. X30 is almost exclusively national racing (at least in the Midwest).
  3. How many motor to have.
  4. How many spares to have? A breakdown on a practice day is no big deal. A breakdown at a regional/national race is a huge deal

Once the group knows this, it’s easier to offer opinions.

Does it have to be 2-stroke? 100cc is much more economical than 125TAG but both are way more expensive than lo206 or the like. Tire costs add up big time.

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I’d answer the questions that John asked, but to add:

The general sentiment on this forum and others is that you should start with LO206 (4 stroke) and move to 2 stroke after 1 year if you really want to, but I kind of disagree with that stance. If you have the money and want to race 2 stroke, just do it. You will learn all of the same things you would have if you bought a LO206. I ended up buying a ka100 this year as my first race kart after test driving a Rok GP and LO206, and I would have been very unsatisfied if I chose the 4 stroke option.

People in 2 stroke will also skin you alive your first few races, and maybe your entire season. And from my observation, the 100 senior drivers “race with their elbows out” quite a bit more than the 4 stroke senior class.

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Interesting. I find the 4-stroke drivers much more prone to crash damage and over-aggressive driving.. They tend to be unable to gain as much seperation, and have more variable skill levels due to lower barriers to entry. Perhaps this is only a local problem.

I do, however, rate the winners at each discipline nearly equal in cleanliness and skill…and it’s sometimes the same people.

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Interesting! This must just be differences local to our clubs.

ka100 senior is the biggest class in my club, the average age is the youngest of the other senior classes. Lots of talent.

My goals are differently to be competitive. I have parental funding but that is only if I am competitive and I am not coming last. I do have other connections for funding so if I did go forward I would not be scraping for cash.

NEKC is regional I think, and I would most likely do practice days at NJMP since I am close to it.

I am going to collage in a few years and since I want to get a degree in mechanical engineering, I have been looking at schools with FSAE teams, and in looking at the schools they tend to like having kids with karting experience and working on there own karts to drive for these teams.

I do want to jump straight into 2 stroke. The njmp renal karts are 4 stroke.

Thanks,

Have you spoken with Alec Vidal? He runs that NEKC Series and is a pal. He started out, actually, as one of the NJMP rental league gang. At the time, we werre on the disastrous old Rimos that were already 20 years old. So, he started TKC and has been involved in a bunch since then. He can give you insight on the series, best bang for buck, etc.

I don’t really have an answer based on your response. I would go with whatever is the popular 2 cycle class at NEKC or NJMP. As for spares, that depends on if you can buy parts at those facilities/events. People tend to acquire spares over time vs buying them up front.

I’ll break it down for you:

What is the time commitment for working on your kart-

this is hard say. In short your can put as much, or as little as you want. Are there guys who put their stuff in the trailer and we’ll see you next race, sure. Are there some that take everything apart clean and inspect, align ext ext and spend hours and hours, also yes.

How would one mentally and physically prepare for karting at a higher level (I imagine that it must be way more physical than rental) -

short answer yes. Even a lo206 will drive much different the a rental. You’re comparing a SUV, to a sports car. Quick search there is many exercises you can do, also SIMs ext. IMO there is no replacement for seat time.

Where is the best place to buy kart parts- : let’s start with your chassis. I don’t know up there what’s round there but for the most part most karting clubs have a store attached to brand Y kart, and teams that show up that support brand Z. the store for sure will have stuff like gears, tires, consumables ext for all. That being said, me personally would go with Birel, or OTK supported karts. They have many, many sub brands as well. The benefits of this is there isn’t a need to carry spare parts you should be able to walk in the store and say I need this.

For the spares I Would have:

Rims and tires- I’d have 3 sets slicks minimum for rotation, then 2 wet sets. With a lo you can get away with 2 complete sets of tires, one your practice set ( your set you put on brand new for race day). faster motors =more consumables- always.”, then your rains.

Now with the 2 strokes: You’re going to need 2 motors minimum IMO. One for practice and one for race motor. Do some searching here and you’ll find you have to rebuild these quite often and how much it is. I know some that compete nationally and have 10 for 1 kart and multiple karts 1 driver. So you can consider those a spare.

You’re going to need an alignment system. In reality your need the sniper system.

last wouldn’t hurt to have a softer axle, and a harder axle. Although not always needed, they are nice to have.

First year vs second:

for me is pretty much you can spend as much as you want. You won’t have your kart purchase and one time purchases. This is a you question that only You can answer.

Now as far as trailers, there are plenty of folk who run out of the back their truck bed. So it’s definitely not necessary. Trailers don’t win races.

If none of that scares, jump on its tons of fun! Let us know what you decide to do!

Buy a $1500 used chassis <5 yrs. old, but not used up. Buy a used blueprinted KA100 engine for $2k.

Buy used MG Reds (or your club’s KA tire) used from the frontrunners or scrounge the trash at a national event (I am sitting on 200 tires from this strategy.)

Go practice for 3-4 weekends until your laptimes are within 4 seconds of the leaders…

Make friends with some people in your class. Most will be helpful with advice until you start beating them.

Go do your first race…and learn a ton all along the way.

A shoestring 2 cycle budget can be as little as $5k if you shop around and don’t have much crash damage. It can also be 10x that if you are funded and want to spend on niceties. Ask questions here and we’ll do our best to help outl.

Good luck! ~Ted

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4 seconds? That will make you want to quit, honestly. To feel like you belong on the same track with the rest of your class, IMO you need to be within 2 seconds/lap of the leader if laps are a little under a minute.

It’s difficult to even learn from others if the pace difference is that big. You can’t follow them, and things they explain/suggest to you will be difficult for you to implement.

This is just my opinion/experience as a slow 4th-year karter.

This doesn’t mean you can’t race if you’re 4 seconds off the pace. No one will be mean to you about it. Quite the opposite. Just understand that you will get lapped quickly and you will feel silly/discouraged.

4 seconds feels like being a white belt in BJJ and going against an aggressive purple belt that just wants to smash you. 2 seconds feels more like being a white belt and going against a chill black belt who is flow rolling with you and trying to help you learn.

The hope is that you progress to 2 and then 1 sec off pace rather quickly. If not, other sports beckon.

Or other learning approaches beckon. :wink:

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Speedcraft sighting #2

Like the mighty Ninja, Warren, sweeps in to administer a deftly aimed coup-de-grace, and then vanishes, once again, to consult with AI Stig.

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