Well its sure is , indeed sir !
@Stamatis125 is that a rok shifter pipe on that bad boy? I’ve never seen that pipe used outside of it’s intended purpose! haha
1 Like
Νο sir !
Thats the original pipe but polished from my Rok engine . But this was the first original rok engine with out the exhaust valve.
Its a pure singer !
1 Like
ahh okay I see! 20char
1 Like
Cool video. Actually reminds me a little of the farm areas where I live. My garage space is fairly neat after last years cleaning, however, seeing a lot of your guys post gives me ideas. Some of you have very good ways of storing parts that I’ve taken screen shots of.
1 Like
Well jim .
the garage set up wasnt something that had come on a week .. its something that build up litlle by little here , every month we try to put something and after almost 2 years we had some good stuff to work on the karts .
Offcource the weekly cleaning its something that I kept as a law coz lets see it ..
It is not the first time we have a place to wrenching
but now i am at my late 40s and i have done it the quick and dirty way many times before .
So i guess now it was the time. We said . Lets make a garage , but bloody clean ! So we can just sit here and drink our coffe some times .
The level of cleanliness on the garage also make me keep a high standart as i work on the karts , i dont know why . Its just works with us ..
So glad that you take some ideas and some strength from our photos . We also live in a small town on an island . So good evening from greece sir !
2 Likes
I think you’re on to something there, Stamatis. I try to keep my work area tidy as well, which includes a rule that, generally speaking, any tool that comes out of the toolbox must go right back into it once the job it was immediately needed for is finished. Not only makes things less cluttered in general, but so many less instances of not being able to find something later on (which happened to me all the time in my younger days 
).
1 Like
He is. My neighbor does a lot of SEMA truck builds and has got me in that habit. I live with people who clutter up my space, so I have to stay really on top of it.
One thing I always say is there’s work just to get to the actual work. The more I can minimize the first part the more time I spend getting things done. Radiator hoses should be in this week. Lets goooo!
1 Like
Kart needed very little after running freshly installed VP LO206 Engine at Jacksonville. The recoil starter was giving me a bit of an issue, so swapped out the one from the defunct Stewart engine. Changed oil (25 miles/35 min run). When I got home, dropped a tooth on rear gear, added chain guard and processed some video. I notice a little bit of oversteer, so I widened the front end just a little. https://youtu.be/7lF2g8eFkEk?si=FYu172gah0iRnzTG
The AIM Mychron 6 has been a little problematic… Combining laps and not having display times match up with Race Studio. I cleared the AIM Memory/Data, hopefully that helps. Also reverted to Using Race Studio 2, as I find it easier to select laps then Race Studio 3.
Hope to get back out there one day next week.
2 Likes
Maintenance on my rear axle . Changing the rear sprocket on the settings for whitehouse racetrack .
Clean the rear rails of the chassis and ducktaping my pillows in the jecko seat .
As years going by i had become softer and in need of seat supports 
Yes the world turns around with duck tape and wd40 !
3 Likes
Factory paint/powder was pretty terrible. Maybe I got a bad batch, but it was soft almost like it had soaked in brake cleaner. I could pretty easily dig my nails into the paint in some spots.
Some mild paint stripper and the power washer knocked 90% of it off.
Going to paint it with some 2K rattle can stuff I’ve used for sprint car chassis that’s held up quite well before, maybe even better than powder coat.
If you ever need to strip some paint back to weld on a chassis or dumb enough like me to repaint the whole thing, this wire wheel kicked ass. Soft enough to not remove metal (just let the tool do the work don’t apply any real pressure), but took the paint that was stuck well right off.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-3-in-Carbon-Steel-Crimped-Wire-Cup-Brush-48-52-5060/100030480
3 Likes
Engines are prepared and ready for Vegas. Wish I could be out there but family obligations will be keeping me at home. Charlie Stines will be my driver in KZ Pro, and it sounds like @fatboy1dh will be on the wrenches for my masters driver!
6 Likes
Cool header cap you got there…
1 Like
Ohhhh buddy, radiator hoses and clamps came. Been training for my first fight but managed to get out for a few minutes and swap the old stuff out.
So close…yet…so…far…
Background shows a squirrel trap we tried to modify to catch a pesky vermin that destroys our flower garden. Don’t want to hurt the little guy. Just trying to trap him haha.
1 Like
Looks good! Run some old fuel line or rubber door guard material on the top edge of the seat so it doesn’t rub a hole through your new top hose.
1 Like
Nice to see some proper hose clamps being used insteaD of the cheapies that ruin the hose.
these ty wraps are great for anti chafing
you can get single, double or triple width, dont forget your flushcuts. 
1 Like
I will definitely do that. Good idea.
A friend is going to come over to help me fill it. I’ve used 10.9 hardware on everything, but a few things are 8.8 that I might replace like the water pump bracket bolt that secures the bracket to the chassis. I was advised to take the spark plug out and pour a teaspoon of castor oil to help with lubrication. Then cycle the engine with the plug wire disconnected to move water through. Squeeze hoses to get air out and make sure the radiator is the highest point in the system.
This is the first project that I pretty much did everything on. It ran really well before and I hope I’ve restored it to the same or better condition than before. Need H20 temp before I feel comfortable starting it. Looking at Mychron 4s – they seem to be the best priced on ebay.
I just want to run RPM and H20. What is the standard operating temp for a PRD / X30?
Also, if I don’t rev it can I start it on the stand and set the idle? Break in will be a whole separate post. I may have asked this before but the answer was not entirely clear. Sorry guys.
Most watercooled engines want to be in the 120-135*F range.
Yes, and honestly you’re fine to bring the engine up to temp on the stand for the first time. Alot of break-in procedures call for getting the thing nice and warm on the stand then cooling back to down to ambient before hitting the track and getting load on the engine. Give it some slight revs and use the brakes to apply a slight load. Keep you hand on the cylinder. You’ll know when it’s come up to temp even without a temperature probe.
Don’t worry about how it idles on the stand. I always have my engines setup that I need to apply throttle to keep it alive on the stand. You don’t want a 2-stroke to just be sitting there idling on the stand anyways. You’ll kill plugs.
Thank you, Clayton! It’s been 13 years so I’ve got a little rust in my brain. I saved that reply and printed it to tape onto my kart. I know it’s not much compared to KZ or new TaG, but to me this project matters a lot.
You guys are always helpful and nice. I’d like to get it running an hit K1 Circuit. Looking to move to FL in the next 1-2 years. The karting / motorsport scene in So Flo looks awesome!
1 Like