Read the manual! Make the required dimensional clearance checks and replace anything that fails. There’s no list that says replace this this and this on a bottom end at this interval, other than consumable items like seals and gaskets which are replaced once disturbed. Re-assemble with new piston and king pin.
I think imma need to give the crank to my engine mechanic so he can do it. I can do top end
Yes top end is a cake walk, just be aware in the piston ring groove there’s a barely noticeable little notch - this is where the ring gap sits. If it’s not either side of the notch you’ll never get the cylinder on. Ask me how I know 
I broke a leg off of my cylinder trying ffs.
Thanks alot. Do i have to change bendix,clutch, gearoil, seals, ingnition, and cylinder ???
Gear oil yes, manual tells you how often.
Igniter often
Bendix no not unless it’s worn or damaged
Cylinder when the largest piston is too small to meet the tolerance, then you go back to a new cylinder with the smallest piston.
Clutch - again manual tells you when to change it.
What is an starter ring fixing nut. Needs alot of force to screw in??
And the balancing shaft ?? Do i ever change that
I’m assuming the starter ring is essentially the flywheel, and has teeth that the starter engages to spin up the engine. Now keep in mind that it doesnt “need a lot lf force to screw in” it should screw on effortlessly, and then just needs the torque to seat it, since its a relatively large diameter thread.
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Do you know how mutch tourque its supposed to be on the wheel nuts. In nm or foot pouds
Dunno I’ve only ever torqued them to one white knuckle.
240 inch pounds seems to be google consensus
