Ok I’ll try adjusting everything you all told me I’m not going to cut the torsion bar off yet, I need to see if feels better on the curbs
I kinda like it being a stiff chassis but how I have it set kinda makes it hard to take curbs and control it sometimes, I didn’t know if cutting the torsion bar and making is adjusting like the newer karts would improve that
Yes The Ax9 B-max was cut and had a two piece clamp with 4 bolts.
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I run that exact Chassis in Briggs Master at 390lb at 6’2 and 220lb it works great.
On Vega VAH “red for you guys” with a sniper conversion, here is what i run 95% of the time.
Front upper bumper snug, 65mm hub 15mm spacer mag wheel, middle height. Neutral caster, 4mm negative camber total, 2-3 mm toe out total, low ackerman setting.
Loose side bars and I MEAN LOOSE
Tillet T11t seat no struts ever, 10mm below frame.
High rear ride height, third bearing no bolts zipties, medium 50mm axle, 65mm hubs, 210 wheel, 6"tire 53.75- 54.5 width
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I’ll never understand how people run the seat below the rails. If I’m even 1mm below, my bottom is gone in a day tops…
Not on a stiff chassis. If you look at an Arrow kart seat mounting chart, they measure from the ground, and say as much as 15mm below. I ran a whole season that, had a few rub marks. And 1 gouge from an off track excursion. I had never tryed it before, because of the expensive seat risk. But now that have, it worked. I wouldn’t do it on a 28mm wet spaghetti kart!
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I think these older karts must have had higher ride heights by default. I’m with you that it seems impossible to run a seat that low, but we always did it with our old AX-9’s.
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Hi Chris,
This Arrow chassis in its day was one of the fastest karts on the market in both the USA & Australia where they’re manufactured.
The nature of the way the chassis is designed in the front makes it quite ‘pointy’ and ‘direct’, so as a driver it can be hard to get used to and the rear wants to slide around a bit. But in high grip conditions and if the driver can change their style to suit it, it was bloody quick!
From memory, now tyres have changed a lot, we used to use a hard axle, tight rear bumper, kartech seat (these aren’t made anymore) and low front ride height. I know the Kartsport North America guys used to use a bit of additional caster also (but you need to be gentle on steering inputs).
All the best with the kart. Big call cutting the frame and fitting a torsion bar, by time you re engineer it, (hope it works) and then fine tune around those settings, you may be better off buying a different kart if your style doesn’t work as this was it’s main feature then when right not many karts could get near it.
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Thanks I just got to learn how to use the kart really that’s all make some fine adjustments with caster and camber especially since I’m switch from a leopard to ka100.
What do you mean by lose side bars I did the sniper conversion since it had no adjustment when I bought it.
Thanks to the Mighty Dave Sera chimeing in! A bonifide Arrow expert.
The side nerf bars have one bolt in each end where they are held into the frame, the bolt shoukd be loose! You should be able to rattle the whole side pod up and down,
Oh I never even knew that would change the chassis’s handling. I thought it would make more prone to falling out or something. Thanks