Only the track can answer this really. It’s an ambiguous term that cover many variants.
“Blueprinted” would also be 8hp. You’ll see stories vary all over the place from folks saying they had great performances out of the box and others saying they insist on running “blueprinted” engines. At the least, it’s gone over to ensure the floats are at the correct height, carb is properly aligned with the flange, valve lash checked, etc etc. A lot of it is piece of mind and there’s nothing wrong with having that!
It’s stock from the perspective that it’s built to the “stock” parts list and specs Animal\Intek by Briggs. The 206 is a stock Animal, sealed by Briggs.
I see there are several options for clutches as far as brands (any differences?) as well as inboard and outboard (I assume this is where the sprocket is, why would you choose one over another?)
ON a LO206 what can or needs to be done. I have read setting the valves which I assume is like a pushrod V8 (valve lash) and the float height set on the carb (is there a tool for this?) Anything else that needs to be done or is done in the process of making a box stock motor track ready?
First clutches: There are many options, but most folks run either the Premier Stinger or the Hilliard Flame. You can find internet discussions and FB threads in the 100’s of comments around which is better. I think at this point, I would just say it is personal preference. We use the Flame for its simplicity. It seems to be the most popular (maybe 60-ish % of the market). Inboard vs outboard has to do with the which way you mount your clutch. Inboard has the drive gear against the engine. Outboard has the drive gear furthest out on the crank. You pick which one allows the best clearance for your engine/mount/chassis/chain/gear combination. Again, there are arguments all over the internet about which one is better (outboard gives more clearance vs inboard causes less stress on crank). I have run both with success.
Now, for the fun stuff. The 206:
A 206 in a box will need quite a bit of assembly. Theoretically, it is as simple as exhaust and fuel lines and let her rip. Set the float height, set the lash and you are optimized, right? There are some more nuances to it. This is why folks pay “builders” to do the work. Let me give you an example. Do you know how far on to put the muffler onto the pipe to give you the most power? Do you know what coil gap or ignition timing gives you the most power? Or do either one of those really even matter?
You will get a ton of answers. Many people will say: I took it out of the box and won with it (and i have seen this done). Many people will say “You have to run this guy’s $1400 engine and its worth 10% more power” (and i have seen these people win, as well).
I try to give newbies this answer. How much do you want to learn and how much peace of mind do you want? Do you want to learn some DIY stuff and just hone your racecraft? Buy one in a box and tune it yourself. Do you want the peace of mind knowing your stuff is as good as anyone elses and jsut want to pull the string and go? Then find a “builder” you trust and support them.
Even though I sell race ready and dyno tuned 206s, I think you can have “success” (this is different to different people) either way.
You make some good points. I am noticing that engines are not being stocked but have to be ordered and there is a leed time. whats going on with that?
I ran kt100 for a few seasons and the clutch was a weak spot. Now running KA100 we almost don’t even think about the clutch as there is nothing to adjust and they are very reliable. Where does the 206 clutches fall on that spectrum?
206 clutches are very set it and forget it. Get clutch, put your choice of springs in it (if different than what comes with it), and clean it every once in a while.
Engine supply: Crayola Virus has cause supply issues I’m every industry, karting is no exception.
Yeah, I had to wait a month an a half for my engine to get here. They are in short supply, and high demand right now. Manufacturers in ALL industries are still coming up to speed after Covid shutdowns.
I have been reading the suggested rules published by B&S and noted that EGT’s are not allowed. Do racers run a head temp probe? If so what is the temps normally seen?
What would a decent used motor with a clutch be worth?
Thank you for the LO206 info. My 13 year old son has expressed an interest in karting (previously he had no interest so it was just my older son and me). So the 206 option is more of a lower speed introduction that he may not even race. I have an older CRG that I was thinking would be a kart for this motor however I’m not sure the seat strut will allow this. I have 2 pictures and would like input on what the chances are of setting this up for a 4stroke. I would prefer to not cut the strut.
Head temps were jsut hashed out on here somewhere. I’ll have to dig up the thread. Short answer is “dont run it”.
A decent motor value is really up to the purchaser. Here in the midwest, used motors are going for $1k+ due to the high demand and no engines available to speak of. If you can wait until winter to let supply catch back up, you can get brand new packages for less than that. I, personally, woudlnt pay more than $600ish for a good used engine (again, just my opinion. People can and do pay more).
Looks like plenty of room to get a chain in there. You will be limited in your rear gear size choices, but shouldnt have much trouble.
Get a good, solid adjustable mount. If necessary, look up the PMI mini sprocket series. Good with gears down to 43 or 44 and perfect for this application.
I think you’ll be OK most likely… and really if it came down to it you could remove the strut. Worth noting that you’ll have the same mounting challenge with any of the OHV engines Clone, Briggs, Tillotson.
I kind of figured that any let side drive would be a challenge. This CRG is an early to mid 2000, it seems that most of the newer chassis have a more favorable bend in the right side strut to allow for clearance of left hand drives.
Our track is 4/10 of a mile where the TAG class is 29-30 second laps, mostly flowing except for 1 tight hairpin. Any idea where I would start with gearing.
Why do I see most 4cycles run a chain guide on the sprocket? Will the CRG sprocket work or is that different for board applications?
I would start at 4.0:1 just based solely on what you gave me and nothing else.
Gear guards help with inboard stuff cause the gear is further away from the protection of the tire. It is more likely to get hit on things or sometimes with the super soft axles/chasses, you get enough flex to move things around. I have seen people have success without them and i have seen people improve chain life/robustness with them.
Any sprocket hub will work. Slide it inboard and bolt up whatever gear you want.
As a 2 cycle guy, you could even stick with your 219 chains and your 1 piece gears. Just cut 1 slit in them and slide them over the axle.
I would probably stick with the 35 chain, but you suggested cutting a slit? Whys that?
How similar or not is a B&S LO206 and the “clone” motor. Visually they look fairly similar. It is also curious to me why typically you see strictly B&S classes on sprint tracks and the clones typically used on oval.
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