1.https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-long-drive-pin-punch-set-93111.html
The smallest one there can be maneuvered to reach the pin
2. Disassemble the head - not hard, lay it flat on a bench with teh pins on the edge. Take a spark plug socket and place it on top of teh springs and give it a hit with the hammer. it’ll disassemble and usually keep the keeper within the socket. Reassembly can be done by hand or if you have a leak down gauge you can pressurize the cylinder to hold the valves in place.
I think it is odd how Briggs lists the torque specs for the head bolts:
They say 200-220 lb-in but then 20-27 Nm. What makes me question this spec range is that 20 Nm is 177 in-lbs and 27 Nm is 239 in-Lbs. Why would they give such a different range spec in Nm? Seems like it would have been easy to just list the Nm range as 22.5 - 25 Nm which would be much closer to the in-lb spec they give.
Reading around, it seems most recommend torquing the head bolts to 200 in-lbs. Does that track with everyone’s experience here?
Don’t overthink it.
200 lb-in and send it.
I don’t think I am over thinking it. I just typically try to use metric units as much as possible and was surprised to see that the range was so significantly different. That is all. 
Roger that, 200 in-lbs it is!
American company messing up metric units…
Name a better duo!!!
Just look at the wrench/socket size chart, Briggs cant decide what the hell they are doing with their units.
Lmao I’ve been using a 10 on the drain plug for years now 
Haha, You and me both!!
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Haha! I just thought it was a 10mm to be honest.
Everyone does. That’s why they end up rounded. You need a 3/8 pipe plug socket. 
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Absolutely crazy (and frustrating lol). But what is so weird to me is that the Nm ranges for other torque specs, including ones that don’t really matter that much, are accurate. For example, the blower housing and carb to manifold ranges match the specified in-lb range.
That also brings up another quelm…why “lb-in” not “in-lbs.” like how everyone normally refers to the unit…?
Because inch pounds is wrong.
I don’t know about “wrong” considering Torque = Force X Length is the same as Torque = Length X Force. Besides, every torque product I’ve ever seen lists the units of their product’s ranges as length X Force such as “in-lbs” or “ft-lbs”…
I don’t think it really matters one way or the other (unless you use a “/” in which “in/lb” is a unit of compliance, not torque). But, I think it is funny Briggs uses “lb-in” throughout but then switches to “ft-lbs” when listing the flywheel nut torque spec.
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You are talking about the company that still can’t keep up completely on stock of their products for their dealers afterall…
And banned a clutch cause it was too expensive but also let’s us use a clutch that’s just as expensive…
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Honestly, a lot of the “silliness” of LO206 like this has made me want to move on sooner. Between the “reliable” and “parity” aspects of the engine feeling more like marketing than reality so far in my experience and that we often have smaller fields than 100cc Sr classes at my local, I am looking at a KA100.
I’m glad I started with a LO206 because I think the KA would have been overwhelming on track and way too expensive on top of the cost of just get started karting. It allowed me to ease into sprint karting and develop some important skills in my driving. I’ve had a ton of fun so far in my karting journey of one year!
But, I’m 30 years old, an athletic 6’2" and 185 lb. That is on the lower end of the healthy weight scale for me height and age…I can’t go much lower lol. The 360 lb minimum weight of my 206 Sr. class is really tough for me to hit. I can cut for a few weeks and scale around 365 but 370 is more often where I land. I’d imagine being 10lbs over hurts me more in 206 than it would in KA100 Sr but I could be wrong (KA100 Sr. is also 360 and I know that package is a bit heavier than 206). LO206 masters is 390 but age is 35+ and literally nobody runs that at my local in my experience and that feels crazy heavy for 10hp lol.
I don’t know…206 has been fun but I was expecting big fields and close racing. What I have experienced is small fields and 2-3 guys WAY faster than the rest. The 100cc Sr field looks healthy and competitive. World Formula is pretty popular here but I’ve heard they are quite a bit less reliable than 206 and I’m wondering why deal with that compared to KA?
I’m just complaining. I’ll be fine. I’m planning on fixing this engine up and running 206 for at least another year. But the pull towards KA is strong.
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185 lbs is on the limit to make KA weight and be competitive, but it can be done. Run a light battery, small gas tank, no decal kit, remove the 3rd axle bearing and you can shed quite a bit of weight off the kart.
The engines are all very close in 206. You can give me any engine in the field and it won’t change my laptimes or running position as long as the valve train is taken care of. I’ve swapped engines many times to prove this point.
Assuming they are working correctly 
That has been my problem recently.
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What I always tell people is I’ve worked on motors that are just worn out and down on power. Think .5hp down from average, throw it away or run practice only with it. Then they whoop my butt on that same motor when mine’s above average by .3hp. People really over think the HP play when setup and driving makes up way more.
…Unless your head gasket is blown
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