All you guys are so very helpful and I truly appreciate all the info. It is a lot of information to digest, kind of like drinking from a firehose. I went to the races at NTK last Saturday and saw one team tent running Tony Kart. I am planning on attending again tomorrow with the intention of picking some brains while there. I spoke with a couple people last week but left feeling a little confused about all the different classes and karts available. I feel like I am armed with a little more knowledge thanks to you guys so maybe I will better understand the information I hope to get tomorrow. It seems like everyone I have been in contact with, either at the track or on here has been very nice, positive and more than willing to help. I felt a little intimidated last week at the track since it seemed to be mostly kids racing and didnât really see any old farts racing. Maybe tomorrow will be different.
Do a lot of Arrive and Drive rentals to get an idea of enjoyment. Be sure you get the track down pretty good and when you get a handle on things.
Next is to talk to a couple of shops about doing some A&D with a lo206, then maybe later with a KA100. You will find the KA100âs are much more physical and can be overwhelming.
In our area, the lo206 class is filled with master riders who still want to race with each other but would like to pass on all the maintenance of a 2-stroke. They donât have tons of horsepower, but the racing is very close and lots of fun.
Thanks John
Can I buy a kart with a lo205 then later on pull it and install a KA100? Unsure if each chassis is able to handle a single engine type due to stress or if you can retrofit them for a different motor and race a different class. It would be nice to buy one chassis with a 206 then when I get good enough switch it out to a KA100. If not I will just go straight to the KA because I am afraid the Briggs motor will get boring pretty quickly.
Yes you can do this. Thereâs a couple of minor changes because the 206 in inboard drive vs the KA being outboard, but generally the kart chassis are interchangeable between classes. The exception starts when you look at a 125cc two stroke shifter where you need front brakes, mounting points for the shift lever etc.
See how it goes. Iâve driven all kinds of karts right up to 250 superkarts and the 206 is still fun for me simply because itâs so convenient, low maintenance and the grids are big.
So no matter what you pick, a good sized grid will make it more fun than driving at super sonic speeds all by your self. Speed is relative. Competition is exciting! Locally 206 and 100 have good sized fields. Another side of 206 is that once you have a builder go through it, there is almost zero adjustment needed from heat to heat as compared to 2 stroke, you could be chasing carb settings every session. Just saying, donât dismiss 206 because you think it might be too slow. After jumping in at TaG 125, looking back I think 206 would have been a better choice for starting point, if even for only one season.
I would say maybe on this one. Some frames are made with 28mm tubing or a combination of 28 and 30mm tubing. Typically the 100CC with about 22hp would ideally be on a 30mm chassis. The extra flex may not be ideal with a higher HP motor. If however you buy a 30mm chassis the change over should be relatively easy. You would need a different motor mount and a few other changes. Knowing your height and weight I would suggest starting with a 30mm chassis regardless of motor.
Lots of 28/30 mix karts on the market for KA. The CompKart 28/30 was a ripper at Vegas. Quite a few Merlin guys running the â29â too.
Also depends on design and tubing material. One brandâs 30mm kart might flex less than anotherâs 30/32, never know.
The only sticking point is the KA is outboard drive and the 206 is inboard as James said. So some right side seat stays might not be as friendly in terms of clearance on the 206. But in general itâs fairly common for a kart to be able to take either engine.
In reality, since money isnât a huge issue, you probably donât need to worry about a chassis that works for both classes. Get one specific for the class you choose, and if you want to change later, sell it and buy a fairly new, gently used chassis. The used kart market seems strong, and thereâs always people coming in and out of the sport.
Go to the races, buy a pit pass and watch. Talk to people. Not just the big operations but the guy working out the back of his pickup. Talk to shops and racers and find a LO206 you can at least run some test laps in. It may not be fast but you will know so much more after one run than you ever will just asking questions. Then decide the direction you want to go. LO206s are cheap to buy and pretty easy to sell. The next classes up are substantially faster and require more expertise to take advantage of what they can do. TAG stuff even more so. Shifters are like the ultimate karting experience, but theyâre not for everyone. Try it before you commit, youâll be glad you did.
That reminds me. NTK will let you test drive a LO206 house kart to see it that is what you want to do. They have all the safety equipment to loan you for the test drive as well. 55 mph feels a lot faster when your ass in only an inch off the ground, but it will give you an idea. Talk to Bob Schabel. He will get you set up.
Youâre in Texas, so youâve got choices. Dallas Karting Complex imports the Sodi, Dave Pauly sells Birels, and CRG Nordam in Conroe imports the CRG.
A KA100 is a lot of fun to drive - even alone on practice days I find myself using every last millimeter of track and maybe even a little barrier contact!
In Texas you can use 93 AKI / 98 RON premium pump gas; mix in Elf HTX 976+ at 5 oz/gallon.
Youâll be pulling 2.2g even in local races, so I recommend getting a Bengio Bumper ribvest. Also go dancing as frequently as you can now that there are dances again; you need great balance to drive well and there are few more fun ways to lose weight.
55mph in a LO206?? Thatâs a little optimistic, isnât it? My 206, and the others at my track, rev-limit out at 46mph, per my Michron dash.
Itâs all in the gearing and length of straightaways. My 206 got up to 58.4mph last time I was out in it. I need to adjust the rear sprocket though as I was hitting the rev limiter too early down the straight. We do have a 700 foot long âstraightâ that consists of a 200ft in to a flat out chicane in to another 500ft straight though. North winds can push a 206 above 60mph on our track.
+1 to what Martin said. Itâs all about gearing and the track. We have a 600 foot straight and I typically top out at 52 to 55 mph on that. Iâm on the heavier side so I am geared up a bit more. The guys who are right at minimum weight typically hit 55 to 58 mph on that straight.
Ah, So if you have a track with long straight sections and not that many sharp turns, you can gear it higher. As opposed to a track that has a number of hairpins, chicanes and one 75 meter straight. Okay, I can see that.