[quote=“AKG, post:36, topic:4231, full:true”]
These crappy fun kart clutches won’t hold up to such nonsense. You can barely make it out of a rear rolling direction in a spin without toasting them.
[/quote]
In your scenario, the clutch is already hot, it gets hotter as you start spinning, so it’s already hot before you start pulling away from a dead stop.
Tell me, have you ever tried using the technique I described?
No, I haven’t ever used your scale method simply because there’s no reason to.
Are you saying you thought of it in the past but dismissed the idea as useless?
I highly doubt a 2 or 3 second burst will fry a clutch. The clutch slips longer than that when taking off from a dead stop. More like 3 to 8 seconds until full lock up and that does not seem to affect the shoes or drum. I commend Al for his DIY suggestion. At no time did he suggest someone spend an entire day repeatedly driving their kart into a wall. However without a Dyno Test, it is a pretty simple way to check.
Do you have something stopping you from obtaining forward momentum when you take off from a standing start?
The information you’re trying to obtain with this comes with the engine from Briggs or your builder. If you buy the engine used, you can get that info directly from the Briggs site or even a quick Google search. Don’t abuse your equipment trying to find information that is already provided to you from the manufacturer or engine builders.
Ok so is it suggested to set the springs at the same RPM or a little bit before?
I can see why the bathroom trick could potentially be harmful to your shoe if you don’t do it correctly, but if I do it 2-3 seconds would it be fine? Or should I just trust the manufacturer if what they say is the torque rpm? I’m planning on using a new engine
Also, does the torque rpm depend on color slide for the carb you use?
Considering you haven’t got a kart yet, I would say setting your clutch up optimally is very low on your priority list. I would set it according to what the manufacturer says or get some help from wherever you end up buying a kart and have them advise you.
Yeah I get that, I’m trying to understand the concept in general lol
This is why I come here. 
Ever hear a little concept called “Inertia”? 
From Wikipedia;
Inertia is the resistance of any physical [object]) to any change in its velocity. This includes changes to the object’s speed, or direction of motion. An aspect of this property is the tendency of objects to keep moving in a straight line at a constant speed, when no forces act upon them.
Inertia doesn’t STOP you from obtaining your forward momentum. 
You’re comparing two entirely different events. Rolling start vs. accelerating against an immoveable object (i.e. a wall) affect the clutch in different ways.
In a rolling start, your clutch is going to slip, start to grab, and start moving you before it engages completely.
Against a wall, it will slip, not move you, and “engage” (which is probably the wrong word here) while still being forced to slip glazing the shoes and drum.
Not the same thing.
No, it “resists” you moving forward similar to a wall.
I agree with you there. At first it will slip, then start to grab. That is point you take your measurement and back off the throttle. For the short duration you would be pushing the clutch into the drum, it would not make a difference compared to the long duration of slipping occurring with some rotation during a dead stop take off. Slipping is slipping.
Stages of Clutch Contact:
Released = no friction between clutch material and pressure plate/drum
Engagement = coefficient of friction of the clutch material is less than the resisting force of the drum (ergo “Slipping”)
Locked = coefficient of friction of the clutch material is greater than the resisting force of the drum
To be honest, I don’t even know if you have the ability to finely tune a LO206 clutch enough to hit a mark within 50 - 100 RPM of a target. If not, then all you can hope for is that its close and send it! If so, then a 3 second test is not going to ruin your day. In either case, I would not recommend this if your clutch was on its last leg.
You technically can… It takes spring combos, weights, etc. More hassle than it’s worth.
Better off to throw black/white combo in a Flame or blacks in a stinger and worry about chassis setup and driving.
There you have it Eric. You can tune with great accuracy, but its not worth the trouble. Get some seat time and worry about fine tuning your clutch when you’re down to few hundredths of the leaders.
Sorry for hijacking your thread with a friendly debate. 
No this debate was great! I’m not really going to worry about this too much till I’m consistent, but it’s still very interesting to learn. Once I’m close and need a few extras tenths then I’ll worry about it lol