So, general interest and possibly a first-mover advantage, commercially. It sounds like your situation for development and testing is not at all like Mr. Hall’s who has a series that would rather not deal with change.
Thats the beauty of where evkarting is right now. Theres room for everyone. What Bryan is doing, what Gary (Vextrek) is doing. Plenty of R&D to go around. Ultimately, the market will decide what (and if) it wants in evkarting. We are obviously based in the 206 world and our business model for evkarting reflects that. We’ll see if it catches on!
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Also this is electric and it’s plenty fast for the right layout:
Nice facility. Looks like they can reshape the track easily.
My goal is really road race karting, not sprint. I’m getting a bit old for the small tight track work. 
I have a CR80R kart that I ran in 2019 in sprint to learn the ropes. But the summer races above 90F with the shifter kart workload about killed me. Our local road race org is K.A.R.T. which allows 125 shifter karts, so I looked at upgrading. At that time the SSE 175s were out and I thought that looked like a better option maintenance wise than an IAME 125 or long-in-the-tooth CR125. But they told me nothing over 125cc (other than some rare vintage engine) would be allowed for insurance reasons. I also suggested 4-strokes, but that was shot down as well. So then I started looking into what an EV kart could do and learning all the math behind it. I then calculated that I would need about a 35kWh battery to run at 125 speeds for 47+ minutes (44 and change plus a lap). How much does that weigh? Ah nuts! I’ll just have to put up with sprint for a while longer…
But after a eureka moment thanks to a history detectives episode, I now have a solution to that - which is what my weird prototype motor and controller are all about. If all goes well by May/June I will be able to run a full length road race with a tiny battery. And then patents and production with 401k money to follow.
3 Likes
I found someone else using that same motor although with a different controller:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=114391
Had a chance to get some testing done on the kart and am really happy with the results so far.
I did 15 continuous minutes of laps at race pace to see how the battery faired. The typical time for a feature race at our local track is ~11 minutes, heat races ~5 mins
Battery started at 95% charge and ended at 25% so I am very happy with how the testing went. I do need to adjust the low voltage protection on the controller as my last 2 laps the power draw was reduced.
5 Likes
Hey Matt,
It was fun to read about your project above. The P42A seems to be the bomb… How do you like them so far? Did you manage to find a place to buy them at a good price? They seem particularly pricy…
FG
Also, I wonder, how did your testing progress? Did you get some good race times on the Molicel pack when charged at 100% and driving it hard?
FG
Batteries:
Pricey but best bang for the buck i think and form factor you can get.
It’s been a while since i’ve updated this thread but i spent all season running practice sessions with anyone and everyone that wanted to drive the kart at the track. It held up wonderfully, not to jinx it but it went better than i anticipated all year. I set it up to run standard mode at i believe 150 amp draw, which puts it about 1-1.5 sec/lap quicker than the 206 or about yamaha can speed. i also put in a sport mode button that brough draws up to 320 amp which made it quicker than Ka100’s. Longest stint from 100% -~20% (when the battery would noticably start pulling power and you’d pick up 1-2 sec a lap due to power loss) was about 20 mins of continuous running. Never when we took it out were we just putting around, always at race pace.
3 Likes
That sounds great! Was the 20 minutes in sports mode or in standard?
Standard, sport mode would be about half of that, maybe a tick more
Sounds like progress!! Can you re-charge at the track or change batteries or go home when the batteries die? How long does it take to charge the batteries?
This thread got me thinking about the new K1 1 mile track in SoCal. Their rental karts are electric and I’m wondering if they will charge batteries other electric karts.
We have a couple of garage spots with electric at the track so recharging is no problem. from full dead to full charge is about 1.5 hrs. Typically you can put the battery on charge in between sessions to keep it topped off. Less of a concern in a race day, but practice days where you want to get 100ish laps in you’d want a 2nd battery to swap to keep downtime to a minimum. Swapping out takes all of about 10 seconds
So could do a 25 lap race with boost once or twice sounds like.
That was the thought process really, 20 lap race with a push to pass as well
What spacer dimension did you use for the Molicel’s, internal 21.2mm or 21.7mm?
21.2 For my first pack I used these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082SL1JDT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
for my 2nd pack I used these:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801683613638.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.81fb1802feQwaL&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
Which reminds me I dont think i’ve shown off my 2nd pack. I designed this one to fit a more standard KG fuel tank location.
2 Likes
Sick!
The shape of the second pack is awesome! I figured these standard spacers (the first ones) would be a little annoying when laying big flat pieces of copper on top due to the square stoppers that stick out. Is that why you changed model?
How about the copper nickel sandwich, is it working good for you?
Thanks for the quick reply 
21.2mm it is!
I changed the model to be more a more universal fit for karts. The square is pretty unique to the OTK whereas the angled one more aligns with how most standard fuel tanks are mounted.
It works great, really havent had any issues so far