The OMP probably works just fine for most people. The Bengio is a favorite here and it’s what kept me karting after I injured my ribs in 2012/2013. I tried several vests and none worked like the Bengio did for my specific issues.
Bengio is a karting specific Italian brand. But OMP generally makes good stuff too and I’ve seen plenty of people with their vest too.
Like TJ said, many are good. It’s just that Bengio weeded itself out as the best so that’s where we point folks. Things have changed with the mandated ones that has seemed to spur some competition.
Hi all. Just want to give a quick update. I bought a used Praga chassis last weekend from a local racer. He seems to be a top runner and sold his personal kart because he just got a sponsorship. The kart does not have an engine so I need to buy one (LO206). From what the seller told me, at the regional level, one need a blueprinted engine to be the top runner, and a stock engine is only good enough for mid pack. The laptime difference would be ~1s on a 60s track. A stock engine here runs $850 all in, and a blueprinted runs $1100-1400. TBH that’s not that big a difference in price. I thought this is a spec engine and I’m not sure what exactly can be done to blueprint it. What exactly is blueprinting on a spec kart engine? and folks, should I get the stock engine or the built one? I understand I’m a newbie in kart but I can lay laps down within .5sec in my touring car all day long. If there indeed is a improvement I’d be open to getting a “built engine”.
So the engines I’ve bought have been from teams after a big race like Supernats. Used a tiny bit and blueprinted.
That being said, I wouldn’t sweat it too much. Unless you are at the front, you wouldn’t notice the difference and if I am not mistaken, you are new to this.
I’d buy an engine from a builder, I’m not sure who to point you to down there but someone here can.
Being on it with your engine rebuild schedule will ensure that your engine feels fresh and pulls hard.
Blueprinting is making sure the tolerances are ideal. This used to be a bigger deal back in the day but stuff like the ka100 and x30 are good out of box, typically.
Sounds to me those prices are for a Briggs 206. Assuming you can find yourself one since the production is tough right now, I would go box stock and then after a few races bring it to a builder. It’s the one engine IMO that is way more smoke and mirrors than actual blueprinting. Anything faster and sure, go for it.
If you’d be down to buy a used motor, I’ve actually got a 206 with my dad in Atlanta that I could arrange to sell to you for a good deal. Pretty good motor that last time it ran at AMP it was in the 1:01s consistently.
Oops yeah ignore what I said. That’s for 2-stroke. Lo206 is a really different story. The folks here like @fatboy1dh (Ghost engines) can give you the skinny on those but basically, change your oil regularly and drive it. When it’s too old, you get a new one. They are sealed engines with terrific parity and ease of ownership.
There definitely some tweaking to get them to run at its best for a given track, but that’s where our pals like Derek come in. Having a good engine builder setup your new engine would probably ensure that you are running as good as possible within the limitations of what can be done with a sealed engine.
Here’s a thread: Briggs LO206 Rebuild and Tuners - #7 by fatboy1dh
I would be interested in buying used. Can you kindly message me? I can’t seem to initiate a message …
If you go the the top right and click on the little graphic for your name, the green circle…
Click on the envelope,
Then you should see this in background or it will just take you there
Click on the blue new message, put in Xander’s handle
An engine that’s a full second off would be an outlier IME. I’ve seen people literally bolt one on out of the box and finish top 3 in top levels of competition.
That price is for a new engine? If it is, that price probably doesn’t include exhaust, engine mount, chain guard and clutch which is probably going to run you $300 - $500 depending on how fancy you want to get with the mount.
If that’s a price that includes the accessories listed above then that seems like a good way to go. Blueprinting (With the 206 it’s more of an additional QC really) is good for piece of mind and developing a relationship with a builder. But it’s by no means required.
You can be sure lots of people will tell you otherwise though 
Plenty of good advice here. Find you an affordable used package and start pounding out practice laps. This winter get it refreshed by any reputable shop and you will be ready to go!
I know we all like the idea of being self sufficient but having a good builder can make your racing journey much more pleasant.
When I ran with Kartworkz and had Jerry on speed dial, our relationship allowed me to focus on racing and having fun.
When I went solo and tried to race on the cheap, I regretted it big time. I was sold a kart but then it was my problem to figure out and there was zero post sale support. It, sucked so bad I gave the kart to a young driver and walked away.
I see the relationship with someone like Derek and Ghost kinda analogous to my relationship with Jerry. It was personal and I came to trust him and his recommendations implicitly. He helped me maximize not only my results but most importantly my time on track and my enjoyment of the whole process.
Take a look at some of Derek’s responses to questions here as a for example. He knows what’s up and appears to be uncompromised and honest, generous with his wisdom and time, humble but accomplished.
Personally I’d pay 2x the cost of the stock engine to have his help getting it ready, knowing he’d be there for me when I’d need his help, which I would, sooner rather than later.
There are probably some sketchy guys out there and as James points out, some dudes will make dubious claims in order to close the sale. Ignore all that nonsense.
You are looking for a partner of sorts, when you choose a builder or tent program. That’s a relationship, not a transaction.
It’s not a requirement and you can run a box stock engine. But, I am confident that a good engine builder would add more value than is immediately apparent.
I’ve been told it’s including everything. I’ll double check next time I go to the shop. I’ll probably buy a new out of box engine, see where I’m at, run it for a while and have it built/checked. Thanks for the help
TBH coming from cars, the cost for karting is very reasonable. Unless for the purpose of learning and having fun, I’d have no problem paying professionals to do it… Thanks for the detailed instructions.
Buying a box stock one and running it in is a perfectly good answer. My only watchout is make sure you do a good break in (which is hard to do on track). With a sealed bottom end and a very tight cylinder/ring package, proper break in is one of the very few ways you can actually make sure your engine performs well.
There was a video posted here recently comparing the tilly to the lo206 and had a bunch of dirt fellas discussing it. One of the fellows seemed to be a very accomplished racer and builder and have some detailed instructions on his break-in procedure which he also said was pretty critical to ensuring the engine is good.
I believe he had articulated 3-4 steps. Something along the lines of run it at x% for y minutes on the stand. Then change oil. Then run it at 25% on the track for some period of time, again, drain oil. Then whang it.
Does anyone recall that vid?
I think you have a good plan. Excited to see how it goes for you, esp with the experience from cars. AMP looks like a killer track too.
Often I find folks that say karting is expensive…. But they have not run other forms of motorsport yet 
Do you have an article you can share about break in? Opinions always vary of course, but if you have a reference for the OP that would be great.
AMP is a really fun track and they have a shop, so it would be easy to start there
Its a fair question and I truly dont. We break in 100% of our engines on the dyno per a test plan we found works best for us. My advice would be to not prolong your light load periods and to change the oil often during the first few sessions.
Here we go…
