ive had entire decal kit in my hands besides say a floor tray and gas tank decals. Its chasing hairs but if they need it then go for it. Us being under weight gives us the privilege of running decals without negative effects. As a kid though i did enjoy running the blank kart around track looking like a rookie while in the end they were they rookies. (we were to cheap to care about fancy) When i get good again i fully intent to go back to a blank chassis haha
At G&J kartway, OVKA, we have seen that the VLR is not as competitive as the KA100.
Looking for some input. Previously I have run a full season (about 12 hours) on a rebuild and it was still competitive. This season my sons KA has about 7 hours on it since a rebuild and it is shot. Almost zero compression and will not run. I am at a loss as to how this could happen. Any thoughts?
Dirt ingestion or generally dustier environment is my first thought.
Others:
Gummed up ring (esp if it’s been running on the rich side)
Got hot or overly lean at some point.
Different oil (or less oil)
Leaded vs unleaded fuel?
Cracked reeds.
I haven’t talked to my engine builder but was looking for ideas from others too.
RPM can have an effect as well. Higher the engine is spinning the shorter the rebuild interval.
Racing in the wet
and sometimes it just happens
IMO.
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Not that this is a great answer but I would feel better if others have experienced something similar.
Also would like to figure out if its something I did so I can avoid it in the future.
I wasn’t trying to be flippant, and it sounds like you are doing everything right.
Just pointing out that sometime it happens through a multitude of reasons and you can’t point at 1 thing as the reason why.
While in your case it may impossible to diagnose the reasons, Iame recommends Elf oil. For the reasons why, look at my previous posts. Uspks and Skusa have standardized on Elf. Best product. One less thing for everybody to worry about.
Felix Rovelli
Iame usa CT
Nor was I in my response. If this does indeed happen sometimes, then it is what it is.
Not sure if this matters but this is an older version of the KA that has the older IAME font cast on the motor and the starter was made in 2017.
Felix,
What is IAME’s recommendation for rebuild intervals? My motor guy is saying 6 hours for a top end. Is that true?
They state check and inspect at 5 hours intervals, and replace at 10 hour intervals.
KA100-Installation-Manual.pdf (4.8 MB)
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Robert, Michael is correct, but provided the installation rather than the overhaul manual link. Please look at page 21 of the overhaul manual available on the IAME USA East or West websites
to see what Iame recommends not only for the piston, but also for rings, con-rods etc etc.
The manual clearly shows how to inspect the various rotating parts etc, and provides maximum values of clearance between piston and liner, and where and how to measure it. It is a more reliable indicator than just assuming some average number of hours, since so many factors are dependent on the circumstances, the fuel mix or the weather conditions under which the engine was used. As Micheal said, the piston should be inspected after 5 hours, and replacement after “about 10 hours” is recommended. In this case, the translation from the italian should have been " around 10 hours" or “approximately 10 hours”, again depending on the measurements etc.
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The rebuild times are in both manuals. The pages are identical.
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Thanks Michael for providing the correct information! I just wanted to highlight the overhaul manual also.
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