I’m trying to remove my rear axel and it’s giving me some problem. The one end of it had been mushroom over a bit
Any suggestions for how to remove the Axl the rest of the way and fix the end? Thanks
Go the other way or break out the file.
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As Mark said, you need to file the edge down to eliminate the burrs. Here’s what I do to make each axle change as easy as possible.
Spray down and wipe the axle with WD40 to make it clean and slippery. Take the wheels and hubs off. Loosen the engine. Loosen the sprocket hub and the brake hub. Sometimes it can help a lot to loosen the nuts/bolts on the sprocket and brake rotor to reduce binding. Loosen the set screws, then hold them in place with the Allen wrench and spin the axle inside the bearing. This will help smooth over burrs where the set screws bite into the axle. I like to loosen the cassette pinch bolts too to reduce binding. Now you can start tapping on the axle with a RUBBER or DEAD BLOW hammer. Don’t use something hard that will crush the end of the axle. Once the brake rotor hub releases from the key, you can pull that key out and things should go smoother. If you have burrs anywhere on the axle (including the end like in your case), use a file or emery cloth to smooth those out. Twisting the rotor hub on the axle once the keys are out helps too. Once the axle nears the third bearing, you should be able to nearly pull it out with a firm yank.
Clean and wipe out the bearings before reinstall.
When you reinstall, stick the axle in and gently pry/tap to get all the axle bearings aligned and centered to reduce binding and help it all go smoother next time. This is probably the thing that helps the most but most people don’t do.
Once you get all that down to a system, it’s like 5-10 minutes to change an axle. I timed myself at 6 minutes last time I did it and I wasn’t rushing.
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TJ has given you a good run down. I would include that you may have issues with the clamping hub for the brake rotor or drive sprocket. You may have to free them up with a large flat blade screwdriver in the opening gap.
I would encourage complete removal of the bearing set screws just to ensure they are not touching the axle.
As for your axle, the damage is done, you will have to go the other way. If for some reason both ends are damaged you will either have to file down the edges or possibly cut the axle with a cut off wheel or hack saw. If there is a bend in the axle that is holding up the axle from sliding through the bearing you will likely have to cut the axle anyways.
If you follow TJ’s advice you should not need anything more than a dead blow hammer but there is a tool to help with this too:
Always watch for the axle keys. I have seen people smash axle keys unto the bearings more than once when rushing to do an axle change!
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What kind of hammer are you using to pound the axle?