New to OTK - Baseline Setup Question

Wow, I’m glad I said something so that you could reply and enlighten me. I would have never in a million years guessed that. Good to know!

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So would The below chart be the most recent measures recommended by OTK? Do you guys use those distances?

Im 180cm and according to the chart the seat would be 66cm from the front.

I had the best success in my single speed and KZ OTK chassis running about 2cm forward of their latest recommendation. I am finding success in my new IPK KZ chassis with the seat further back though.

I don’t have an OTK kart. I have a CRG but reading the information it seems participants to this thread have knowledge so I thought I’d raise a few questions.

My CRG frame is designed for a KT100 engine. It has 17mm spindle stubs and a 40mm M rear axle.

I bought the kart and have had challenges getting it to feel comfortable cornering. And this is with a LO206 not a 20 HP engine. Now the front track with all spacers inside is still narrow. In fact when I got the kart the rear wheels were mostly outside the front wheels. sort of like a “A” shape. I had people comment how narrow the front is.

The narrowest I can get the rear axle is 1350mm. I have checked karts with 25mm axles and they measure from inside rim to Kingpin head 150mm. My 17mm are only 120mm!

So what I have done is installed 25mm axles and hubs and now have near 150mm or 925mm inside front rim to inside front rim track.

Might sound silly but every raceing car be it F1 or Indy seems to have the outside of the tyres in line with the other.

I’m a really novice driver but can anyone suggest some track settings from and rear or rear to cater for the current 925mm inside track? That would be 1185mm outside rim to outside rim at 130mm per rim width. Correct?

Anyway I’m struggling big time as the kart feels diabolical when cornering.

Any advise appreciated.

Congrats on the new OTK chassis for your son—it’s a fantastic step up for advancing in KA Jr! The “OTK baseline” refers to the factory-recommended setup parameters that serve as a starting point for tuning the kart, though OTK doesn’t officially publish a universal baseline guide for all their chassis. To find the most accurate setup, reach out to your local OTK dealer or distributor, as they often have updated factory setup sheets. Alternatively, explore recent guides shared by top teams like Tony Kart or Kosmic, which are often tailored to OTK chassis. If those aren’t available, you can start with common defaults: front ride height in the middle position, rear ride height neutral or slightly raised, medium axle stiffness (like the “M” axle), neutral camber/caster settings, medium-length hubs, and track width around 138-140 cm at the rear. Use OTK’s seat position chart for your son’s height and weight, which is available online or from dealers. Be sure to document the current setup before making adjustments so you can compare and identify changes. Forums like KartPulse or OTK-specific groups can also provide community-driven advice for recent baselines. With the right starting point and minor tweaks for conditions, your son will be ready to shine on the track!

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I have no experience on the CRG, but first, yes generally the 17 mm spindle will be narrower than a 25 mm spindle, however many karts will have a different front width from kingpin to kingpin so the overall width that the kart likes to work in will be different. It is important to remember that even though karts look similar, little design differences can result in big changes in how the kart functions and tunes. Don’t necessarily be put off by comparing your kart to different brands; some of the best chassis I’ve seen over the years have super narrow front ends. They just tune differently. There are trade-offs to every design choice.

It is typical to have the rear track wider than the front. Remember this is a kart and it functions drastically differently compared to a standard race car with a differential and suspension.

There are different ways to tune for a low HP engine like 206, and someone who has experience in that particular chassis will probably have a better suggestion, but generally when you have less power, you need to narrow the kart up in the rear to initiate unloading of the inside rear wheel and allow the kart to corner freely. A wider front track width will give more front end “grip” and transfer more weight, hiking the inside rear wheel higher.

When you say the kart is “uncomfortable” and “diabolical” while turning, what does that mean? It’s important to work through the three phases of the corner when diagnosing handling issues, so what is the kart doing at turn-in, apex, and exit? That helps determine what is causing the issue and how to fix it.

Also, I’m not sure how much driving you’ve done, but before doing a ton of tuning and diving deep into adjustments, you ALWAYS rule out driving errors first. It is impossible to tune a kart properly if the driver is inconsistent, not near the limit, or not running the correct line. The kart needs to be loaded up to flex and work well, and if you are not getting to the tire limit, it won’t be loaded up enough to flex and you’ll have handling issues. Much like a downforce formula car doesn’t work until it gets to speed and the wings start producing downforce, a kart doesn’t work until you start getting near the tire limit so the chassis can flex properly.

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If that’s the older KT1(?) or one of the chassis from the 2008-2012 era CRG’s they were designed, like the old Birel R30, to run on the old Bridgestone YHC (or comparable) tire. The small spindles and axle, narrow front and even caster out were norm for the day.

I think the tires have significantly more grip and a longer useful window than back then. They almost flat slid for rotation in that era as opposed to making the kart load, lift and rotate like now (and like it should be).

The bigger spindles can work but don’t go super narrow on the rear. Like TJ said - a kart is not a sprung car, don’t expect it to act like one.

On current tires I’d be careful not to have some of the old school tricks that they may have run on that kart - a ton of negative camber (current tire shapes don’t reward) and/or caster out.

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@KartwerksDan

Thank you very much for your posts.

At the risk of repeating information, I’ll lay out what I have and experience.

My kart experience is probably about 2 hours total drive time. I’m just ticked over 65yo so a late starter. haha.

I have two CRG Black Diamond karts. One marked “Black Diamond SMAX ST 2” This one is a TAG chassis and has 25mm front and 50mm rear axles.

Kart two is a “Black Diamond YAMAHA ST 2”. This one is a K100 chassis and has 17mm front and 40mm rear axles. Other than the axels the frames measure and appear the same. 1030mm wheelbase, 30mm tube diameter, same three bearing carriers, brakes and seat position brackets. They look the same.

Scroll down a bit on this link for an overhead picture and description.

Due to the low power of the LO206 I decided to build up the better of the two chassis which was the YAMAHA one.

Many people at the track stated how narrow the front end was, even with 20mm spacers. The measurement from kingpin to inside wheel rim was 120-ish mm and the narrowest the rear axle can go is 1350 outside rim to outside rim.

When I drove this with my limited experience and probably slower than optimal, the kart would enter the corner but on acceleration out it would dive to the inside. Not losing grip just felt like added G-force it would off throttle enter fine. This was on a tight twisty track.

Then on a more open and faster track it entered the corners fine but didn’t continue to turn. It didn’t slide the front tyres and didn’t feel what I would call understeer.

But then with some more bravado I entered the corner, and at the point of "wow I’m going to fast towards the outside of the track I hit the throttle and the kart started to increase cornering.

So by the end of the day I was going into every corner thinking I would not make it and using the throttle to make the kart turn. This is my diabolical reference. Agree a little over the top of a description.

So I measured up and observed other people’s karts in the class and in TAG. Most were using 25mm/50mm axles. Measuring the 25mm axles they were 150-ish mm for the same point to point, so 30mm wider per side than the 17mm spindles.

I spent most of the races making one change per race. Wider front or wider rear, then narrower rear, more caster, tyre pressures. All with my inexperienced mindset but seemed ‘logical’ methodology to feel a difference.

Looking at others racing it seems from the outside the karts drive more linier or more stable and controlled.

So what I have done now is take the 25mm axles off the ‘S MAX’ chassis and put them on my race kart. So of course it will be 25mm/40mm which I think is fine. I will try to pretty much neutral out all caster / camber / toe as a base for the next practice.

I’m not using a torsion bar or seat stays. The tyres we run are certainly sticky sprint tyres used also by TAG etc. (not sure how to rate stickiness) not super sticky I don’t think.

I’m sure my inexperience in driving and understanding karts is a big factor. But in my head what I should be able to get is a balanced kart that making a turn is all dependant on your entry speed rather than rear brake turning throttle application. I guess people call the behaviour I’m after as planted.

If nothing more I hope this is a good read from a novices experience.

Thanks so much again for assisting in my journey.

If I understand correctly you are breaking the rear free to force a rotation? Are you sliding or are you in slip? Apologies if you are experienced driver. In my experience that sounds like you are exceeding the useful limit of the tire/chassis and forcing the turn. It should feel hooked up, more like carving ice on skates or corduroy on skis. Does it do this on fresh tires?

I had a kart last race that wouldn’t bite and hold like the rest I also had so I won’t discount setup as that could be a big part of it. But, it could also be that you don’t have the kart under you, yet. Consider getting a coach to spend some time with you to get insight on wether your setup is creating the driving issue or wether it’s how you are driving the kart. Could be a bit of both.

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A few quick questions for you to help my thought process on how to word things:

  • have you raced, did AutoX or Track days in cars previously?

  • where would you say you are lifting, braking and releasing the brakes in reference to turn in and apex?

  • where would you say you get back to throttle in reference to apex and exit?

  • ballpark what is your height/build?

  • which tires are you using?

  • apologies if I missed it but are you running on a sprint track or big road course?

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Yes with fresh tyres it does this. I to, as you say, expect the kart to corner like skates on ice. I’m not over powering the tyres else I would be sliding and most probably spinning.

It may well be I’m unbalancing the kart during the turn, but I don’t move my hands correcting the kart very much at all.

I shall try and duplicate another kart from a competitor regards track front and rear and make it a baseline of sorts.

As I said previously I am super novice and still have heaps to learn and adjust. I’m just not having such a fun time at the moment the way the kart is handling.

Thanks Dom.

Hi Dan,

  • I have raced motorcycles above 1000cc on closed circuit tarmac.

  • I would say I’m braking with most pressure whilst straight to just turning in (for 90 degree turn)

  • I try to get on the throttle ASAP past the apex (for 90 degree turn)

  • I’m 6 foot, 182 lbs and me and the kart weigh in at 365-ish lbs

  • Tyres are either Maxxis White or Dunlop DHH. The Dunlops being stickier and used also by TAG karts here.

  • I usually drive on 850 to 1100 yard sprint tracks.

Club race track

Hire kart track / race track

My video on kart setup (and the one on driving basics) might be helpful for you:

Might give you more of a sense of the kart’s specific driving technique and how to make some adjustments and what they do.

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Pedal inputs tho? Usually quiet hands mean your feet are doing what they should at the right time…

But you also say…

** I would say I’m braking with most pressure whilst straight to just turning in (for 90 degree turn)*
** I try to get on the throttle ASAP past the apex (for 90 degree*

We gonna need video Dands! Might be easier to see what’s going on. From what you write above you are perhaps braking too soft… then likely trailing? Bit maybe you aren’t taking off enough initially and then chasing yourself into the corner, and then late to gas.

Bear in mind I’m not TJ and just spitballing. I like kart talk almost as much as kart racing!

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Thanks TJ. Much appreciated. I’ll bookmark it for sure.

Thanks Dom.

I’m going to get back out there and practice. I’ll place a lot of the issues on my lack of experience. It could even be the perception of speed being so low to the ground

No doubt at times I’m trail braking. At times I stab the brakes to make the kart turn but of course take the momentum penalty for doing so.

Pedal inputs, I have about 1 inch travel from idle to full throttle. so pretty much it’s either full on or off.

Thanks everyone for advice and tips. Really appreciate you taking the time to help me.

And for your comment below. I analyse the heck out of everything and that can sometimes be right down the rabbit hole. :slight_smile:

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Thanks again TJ. I watched the series which included racing lines. He said most new karters take too shallow / early an entry and this causes problems on exit. I also identified a few more ‘issues’ that I’m experiencing. All caused by the driver.

So that said, once again, thank you everyone for you feedback and help. I believe now going by documents I can find, I have the kart at “modern” defaults for Front / Rear track width, Camber/Caster and I have the middle hole on the CRG steering arms for Ackerman.

With this set up I just need more track time rather than chasing my handling expectations between every session.

A sincere THANK YOU everyone.

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