I think they are quite stiff as they often don’t run with from torsion bar in and soft Jecko seat and no stays. Pretty sloppy setup😁
Very front positive
KR is a very soft chassis, but I think the way that the design is set up allows for no front bar, Jecko, etc. I imagine the cross bars may be stiffer, but overall the frames are not stiff at all.
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Yeah the KR is one of the softest chassis on the market.
Yeah thanks for clarification, pretty conventional geometry on their frames and very straight crossbar. Cool that they could get it to work whilst being that soft.
Pretty much no one runs them anymore in Sweden, cracks a lot
I’m currently on a medium to hard axle and I’m thinking of trying a 1040mm soft axle. I remove the front bar. The rear hubs have two bolts. The front is on 0 caster 8mm (total) camber and 4mm (total) open. I’m going to move the seat closer to the axle. I’ve tried the lowest and middle height and found no difference in lap time.
Having driven both the KR1 and the KR2, the KR1 (KZ chassis) is substantially stiffer than the KR2. The KR2 is an absolute wet noodle, to the point where I could never get it to work 100% is X30 Masters. I have a friend who has been racing a KR1 in shifter at 460 lbs and that chassis is still going strong 2 seasons later 
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We run maxxis sportsman, a medium / hard tyre. The KR rear ride height should be high, try Tiger or MXJ wheels, these shaved another .2 per lap! Also, bring the seat way back. Honestly, the stock KR shines on Leconts etc, but needs experimentation for harder tyres especially with a taller driver. Finally, try seat stays.
I’m generally one to reject the notion that any kart can be fast - to me its a discredit to the engineers, but I generally say that when people are talking about small brands.
CRG is well-known and has done well for years at every level. Maranello is a very similar chassis and there were several of them at or near the top in shifter at the SKUSA pro tour in new castle. The track wasn’t particularly grippy.
My advice would be to scale the kart and see where you’re at. To me it seems like your seat could be in the wrong spot. It couldn’t hurt to test drive the KR too, and it does really sound like that’s where your heart is at.
I don’t know what setting to do on the whole chassis for a track that doesn’t have a lot of rubber. I will try a soft rear axle.
One thing I will say from experience with trying to add grip on a track that doesn’t have any, is that it can actually be the wrong way to go. I’ve actually found that freeing it up usually lets the kart work better. If the softer axle doesnt do what you want, I would try the following:
Medium 1040mm Axle
Standard front width (45.5")
55" rear width
95mm rear hubs, instead of the long ones
Middle front ride height
Middle rear ride height
Standard caster (not adding caster)
One box toe out per side
Zero camber, or even one box negative per side
Front bar in and flat
One set of seat struts per side (could do 2 on the brake side)
With the hard green tires, it might not jack in the way that you want, and adding a ton of stuff to try to “add” grip just generally won’t work. Instead you need to work the tire less. So, if that still doesn’t help, you could try a setup like this:
Medium-Hard or Hard 1040mm Axle
Standard front width (45.5"), or slightly narrower
55" rear width
95mm rear hubs, instead of the long ones
Middle front ride height
Low rear ride height (axle up)
Standard caster, or maybe try removing some caster
One box toe out per side
One box negative camber per side
Front nylon bar
Only one seat strut on brake side
Should run magnesium wheels regardless of setup. If you’re running spoked wheels, try running something like the Douglas SE, or vice versa. Wheels can make a pretty big difference.
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I have a road rebel, a KT5 crg (30/32) and they do same lap times. Roadrebel is stiffer, KT5 softer. Both hop or slide or generally be slow WHEN the set up is not good for the day. When the set up is good on either kart, the kart goes like on rails, makes good lap times etc
I would imagine its hard for a factory to design a kart or give a baseline set up that is generally fast everywhere, likes every tyre, behaves well with light and heavy drivers, different tracks, different driving styles. A newbie driver should be able to safely get the kart rotated, rain or shine etc. Brand A might have different lift characteristics than brand B. If the driver isnt into set up changes and leaves set up to the manufacturer, it becomes a game of luck where brand A has a more suited base set up for one track , brand B has better base set up for another track
To improve my lap times I have had to try everything on extreme ends of the set ups, write up and make notes how each adjustment affected lap times, what the chassis is lacking, doing too much etc. I have made some parts that are not available from the manufacturer or kart shops to just test and see what happens when going way over the “base set up” .
For example cutting these front spindles and welding them to a new position dropped 0.5s from my personal best on my local track. My lap times on avarage shifted down
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Did you change the rake of the spindles?
Yes I changed the rake. Also added more ackerman positions to test. I want to know when too much is too much for my local track and how it shows in front tyres
Too little ackerman in my kart kind of brakes the front end on corners → bends the chassis
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No kidding you have a lot of ackermann choices there!
Things that I recall make Tinnini Group (CRG Chassis) different to others are:
Narrow waist design
High rake spindles
Annoying wheel stud pattern 
Hi , hate to ask a completely different question here, but im weighing up my options between a crg rr and a birel. since there are many crg runners on this thread could anyone tell me if the rear stud pattern is same as OTK. i know the fronts are different but unsure if the rear
That’s because Tinini would have a heart attack if he sees you putting MXC wheels on a CRG
I think this needs a meme.
The rear is also different compared to others