I’m running in KZ and I was considering buying the AIM lamda sensor kit.
Is anyone on here using it? Has it been a worthwhile investment?
I don’t think you can run it with the mychron 5…
I use the LCU one on X30/KA100 and honestly wouldn’t use anything else.
Not sure how well it would work with a KZ though.
And it can be used with Mychron 5.
Have you found it useful in dialing in your engine?
You can plug it into the back of the mychron 5 or a hub. It is a heated sensor so you’ll need a 9ah lead acid battery to power it, and it is useful in carb tuning. The downside is that the sensors get fouled more quickly with two strokes, and even faster with leaded fuels.
Sorry for the late response here.
In a situation where you’re starting from scratch trying to figure out carb tuning and don’t have clear advice from a builder / tuner…the Lambda would be hugely beneficial to your program.
In my situation I bought the LCU ONE and hoped t would take my tuning program to the next level, but in the end I wound up right back where I was with EGT. Since we can’t run Lambda during race days all we have to rely on is EGT. Our builders are tuining on the dyno and giving EGT targets and when I installed the lambda I’d pretty much wind up right at my EGT targets when it was all said an done. Since that rationalization I don’t even run the thing anymore cause it’s extra weight and complexity that I can’t carry on race day anyhow.
I will add that for tuning scenarios on VERY hot or VERY cold days it helps get things settled more quickly, but that’s the only place I’ve found it helpful in my situation.
My plan was to use the lambda in conjunction with my nt project software, the idea being that I can really dial in the engine and then adjust my software settings to suit my engine.
Once this is done, in theory I wont need the lambda sensor after that. I can rely on the software.
We have one and have it used it a good bit. Works well, good info and a good tuning guide.
I’ve just ordered one!!
What batterys are you guys using? I was looking at some rc car batterys (4 cell lipo 3000mah) however there 14.8v (not 12v as recommended)
Would these rc car batterys work?
I gave up on using smaller batteries and eventually settled on this.
They are not the most rugged but for a kart without a starter battery it’s worked well.
I’m using one on a TMR2. Worth every cent, never had engine failure since using it.
You’ll find EGT is a joke once your calibrate yourself on what lambda is doing.
Also get yourself a relative air density meter.
Write down you carb settings vs rad.
Battery I use
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B09NX156QY/ref=pe_15238772_587734682_em_1p_0_ti
You are best to braze the lambda nipple to the exhaust than tig weld. I find tig weld cracks on the heat affected zone.
Just use the Chinese version. They are cheap consumable
I just had one fail after 2 seasons, though I’m not using leaded fuel.
Yup, that’s generally what I do. I treat the sensors as consumables, cheap ones last as long as the pricy ones.
I have got myself a full motorsport weather station with RAD, along with nt projects jetting software, so with the lambda I will be able to calibrate the software to the engine to produce the correct carb setups at all times.
What location have you placed the sensor in the pipe?
Also how long does your battery last?
In my briggs I have the sensor in the muffler, in my 100cc I’ve had them in the pipe, and the flex pipe as well. In my shifter I have the sensor in the pipe, in the widest cross-section. I haven’t noticed a difference in where the sensor is exactly, but I’ve heard having it too close to the piston can cause inaccurate readings.
The 9AH lead acid battery I use can last a full 90 minutes of track time. I usually go for a 100 laps on a practice day at my local track and that’s roughly 90 minutes of track time.
Battery last probably about 90 minutes.
Race day, the battery is good for the day, test day I need to top up through the day once I see the voltage less than 15v
After you’ve finished for the day, always unplug the battery.
I killed 2 batteries until I realized I was running them below minimum voltage.
I now charge the battery back up to 50% capacity before leaving the track.