Alignment. What do you need

I know i need a sniper tool like a sniper v2 or somekind.
But do i need something more to do alignment. Like a laser or does that come included

It’s got the lasers built in.

Dr Evil Laser GIF

@KartingIsLife How much does it cost… :grin:

Oh I know this one…

One Million dollars!

Does anyone know how many milimeters toe, camber, caster is normal in j125 x30 so i can align mine how i like it, like just from how many mm positive or nagative camber is normal and same for caster and toe😃

What chassis do you have? That might help

I have a praga dragon evo. So baosycly a normal chassi like the big karts without frontbrakes.


Old pic from winter btw

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1-2mm toe out per side, caster should start neutral but lasers don’t show that anyway. Camber probably will be a touch negative from the factory but could depend on your situation.

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This is my preferred system. I am currently modifying to put slip stands on all 4 corners as well so I can do my setups static loaded.

Can it change laptimes with a good setup.
And how do i check caster?

Most people don’t actually measure caster angle.

And yes, front end setup will affect lap times.

It seems that some setup changes affect top speed(leaving gearing out of it). It must be a rolling resistance thing. I would imagine that toe-in, for example, rolls less freely than neutral. I do wish the sim version of tuning was same as irl as it would be a simple way to learn about tuning. Caster, in KK, has a pretty significant effect. Just a noob observation.

While not as precise as most want, you can do caster sweep on the lasers. Turn laser to left side of grid, turn to right. Count vertical boxes moved.

Why dont they measure caster. How do you change it. Do you have to change the thing that hold the king pin with more or less degees

Because total caster isn’t really a good metric to measure since every kart brand has a different amount of caster. You just adjust it relative to whatever your kart starts with with the caster pills on top and bottom of the kingpin.

Measuring caster is a little trickier than camber and toe. Here’s a tool that measures caster which will give you an idea of how it’s done.

https://longacreracing.com/tech-central.aspx?item=8068&title=digital-kart-camber-gauge-with-acculevel-version-3

VIEW PDF

Instructions for Digital Caster/Camber Gauge

  1. Find a level place to set up your front end. This unit reads camber and caster very accurately. Unlevel ground will affect that accuracy. SEE BELOW IF GROUND IS NOT LEVEL
  2. Attach the gauge to the spindle. Be sure that the surface you attach to is machined square to the spindle and doesn’t have any nicks or burrs. BE SURE WHEELS ARE POINTED STRAIGHT AHEAD WHEN SETTING CAMBER. Rotate the gauge until the small vial on the top of the gauge shows level.
  3. CAMBER: Turn on the AccuLevel™. Camber is read directly on the display to .1º (1/10º). Be sure the display is not flashing. This indicates it is in Caster Mode - CASTER see below. Push CASTER button to exit Caster and get into get into Camber Mode - steady display reading.
  4. CASTER: First turn the wheels 15º to the right when setting the RF or 15º left when setting LF. (NOTE: THIS IS DIFFERENT THAN WHEN USING VIAL GAUGES WHICH USE 20º. IT IS IMPORTANT TO TURN THE WHEELS EXACTLY 15º FOR MAXIMUM ACCURACY.) Rotate gauge until it is level. Turn on the AccuLevel™ and push the CASTER button. The display will flash on and off to indicate caster is being measured. Push ZERO - display now reads 0º. Now turn the wheels back past center to 15º the opposite way - for a total of 30º (AGAIN THIS IS DIFFERENT THAN WHEN USING VIAL GAUGES). Rotate the gauge again to level and read the caster directly.
  5. Adjust the caster and camber as needed. Each time you make a change bounce on the front end to settle the suspension. NOTE: Adjusting the caster may have an effect on the camber and vice versa. Double check settings. Tighten all bolts when done.

I found the Power Republic Video very helpful when first using the Sniper Laser Aligner System.

There is a point where he talks about using the steel ruler and magnet to stand the ruler up and sweep the steering wheel so that the laser passes over the ruler ahead of the front axle plane. This could be used to measure your caster angle if you have a reference point with steering centered to compare it to. It may require a little geometry to calculate, but it is doable. In general, like TJ said you don’t typically have to measure caster. You would simply add or remove caster from where ever the factory neutral point is depending on your needs. The “pills” or eccentric washers above and below the kingpins will tilt the kingpin in/out or forward/back to make the changes you desire. However any change on a single pill with change both camber and caster simultaneously. An alternative to the Eccentric Pills is the Sniper Adjusters.
http://www.sniperamericas.com/sa1.html
They allow independent adjustment of either.

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