Arrow king pin assembly

This the current king pin set up I have for now.
I bought the king pins assembly for my arrow already I just won’t get them until after after practice.
If I run those at njmp on Friday practice would I be fine instead of running these.

Or should I wait till I get the new king pin assembly

What’s the basic difference between the two kingpin/washer/pill sets? Both appear to be arrow specific.

KKP6: AX8 28/30, 30/32, AX9 Midget Rookie Cadet

To be specific, what’s going on exactly…

what you have installed is an Arrow parts kit or hardware sourced from Home Depot to make do?

What is your concern with what you have?

I have an old Arrow and this is how mine looks:

Basically there is a cone like spacer and a smaller spacer that rides on the bearing race on each side of the spindle, so the is in the middle position. I think as long as you are the same number of washers side to side you are close with what you have. If you are concerned about the strength of the bolt you are using as a kingpin it is mostly like fine.

Ok thanks I just wanted to know how that would hold up in practice from anyone else’s experience that’s the new king pin assembly I’m ordering

Basically ones adjustable and the other one isn’t

Impression I’m getting is go for it.

Maybe I’m just paranoid but here are my thoughts…

Concern 1: The king pin bolt looks like a standard bolt. King pins typically have a slightly larger shank diameter (unthreaded portion) than a standard bolt and fit in the C-Bracket with very little clearance. Make sure that the bolt doesn’t have much play in the c-bracket. Also, the shank portion should extend through the upper and lower holes in the C-Bracket. Cranking down on the king pin bolt will help keep this joint tight but it could come loose and play havoc on the C-Bracket upper and lower holes. Also, there is no safety clip but I’ve never seen a king pin nut come loose but if this was a race, it wouldn’t pass tech.

Concern 2: A standard bolt is very hard, most of the king pin bolts that I’ve run across are soft. I think the rationalization is, if there is a crash, it’s better to bend the king pin than the c-bracket.

Concern 3: The washer right next to the upper and lower king pin bearings should not be in contact with the outer race of the bearings or the kingpin.

If you need to go as is, just watch for front wheel up and down play, there should none and everything should turn easily. If there is play it might permanently damage the chassis.

Have fun!

Ok, thanks this helps a lot if going to put safety wire so they don’t fall out but your third concern is basically the washer is too big and that’s why there a little smaller. Also how could I damage the chassis if there is play just want to know how it works.

Chris – If loose, the king pin bolt could enlarge the C-Bracket holes. On the track the kart sees some really high forces from pound on curbing etc.

The safety wire is probably not super important for running just one day, as long as the elastic stop nut is new.

Ok lol I have no idea how new the nut is so should I just do it anyways to be safe then or is there a way to check?

It sounds like it would best if you could safety wire. I sure don’t want to go around safety.

I could be way off but my general thinking is if I can’t thread a nylon nut past the nylon by hand it is probably okay. Some will say replace every time its removed (overkill). Rarely I have seen a lock nut loosen, but it can happen. Check things over every session. If you are required to pass a tech inspection safety wire or a clip is usually required. If there is no tech I would say use your best judgment. Whats odd to me is usually the things that loosen are things that aren’t typically teched (looking at you seat and weight fasteners).