At 10 hours lift the head off and clean the top of the piston, examine the face with a magnifier for cracks starting. I change the piston at 15 hours and piston/crank at 30.
There’s a great app called ‘jetting for IAME kart engines’ that will tell you exactly where to set your carb screws for atmospheric conditions. I use it every time I go out.
Chassis - WD40 is your friend, after a day on track coat the exhaust and rear axle. You can spray the brakes too (I do) but for gods sake don’t forget to degrease em with brake cleaner next time
Great advice guys! I’ve been leaving all the water in the kart, but upon reading this I’ll start draining it.
A few more small questions - I have been advised that I should send the top in for a rebuild every ten hours and the bottom end once a season. Should I work on rebuilding the top myself and send the bottom off, or let the pros handle both ends of the motor?
-I have been leaving the fuel in the kart, but it’s only sitting until the following weekend.
-Also, what kind of lube are you guys using for the clutch?
If you’re going to be using it every weekend it’s not a big deal to leave the water in it. Just if it’s going to sit for weeks or months definitely drain it. The minerals in the water will start to leave deposits if it sits for a while.
Personally, I’d rather have the pros do it. The risk isn’t worth the reward to me. It’s either spend the money now and know you have it done right. Or cheap out now and maybe have an issue that’ll cost you more to fix later.
Fuel is fine to leave in. It’ll start to stain your tank and fuel lines though. I take it out and put it in my fuel jug just so it doesn’t stain everything.
I’ve been experimenting with lube for the clutch. I don’t even know what the stuff I’m using now is. It came from work but it’s made for high speed and high temp bearings. You want something that isn’t too viscous or it’ll fling into the clutch drum, make a mess, and cause slipping.
I’d say every 3-5hrs to take a look at the reeds (make sure there’s no cracks or chips), put a new spark plug, and a new carb diaphragm kit. Pretty cheap way to keep it from losing power.
It was undramatic… start time is selected for engine blow.
We dumped it. I had driven a session without the hose attached. When I came into pits, the stickers on the cylinder head had all burned. The decision was to run it and see. Not worth fixing with that much heat damage, according to my engineer.
