@IRQVET While things may have felt FU, they are definitely not BAR.
Apologizes for the following diatribe, but it’s not an easy question. Also, you can pretty much think of ‘energy’ and ‘speed’ as interchangeable throughout if that makes it easier to understand.
Drivers always try to take their tires to the limit (optimal slip angle). To do so, a balance must be maintained between the energy (kinetic energy/speed) being put into/through a tire, and the tire/track interaction that allows the energy to be turned into traction; which, in turn, generates the forces that act on the kart.
Apply too much energy, and you will cause the tire to generate larger than optimal slip angles (scrub speed & create heat); way too much, and you’ll just understeer off track or spin.
Apply too little energy, and you will not be able to generate (and/or maintain) optimal slip angles.
When you are driving at/near optimal slip angles, you are not just driving a simple ‘line’ around the track (X, Y point in space to X, Y point, etc.), because the slip angles introduce another factor - Rotation (the angular orientation of the rectangle described by your 4 contact patches relative to the tangent of the line you are driving). So, really, when you are going fast enough to generate significant slip angles, you need to start thinking in terms of the ‘trajectory’ (orientation on a line) you want/need to drive instead of just ‘the line’.
So, typically, on corner entry, you will be continually pouring a lot of energy into the front tire (as you are asking the kart to change direction), and therefore the slip angle of the front tire will be gradually increasing, which will put your kart into an ‘understeering’ orientation/trajectory.
However it takes a lot of energy to maintain optimal slip angles, so at some point, you will run out of energy, which will simultaneously cause the remaining energy in the front tire to return to the kart’s center of mass, and the kart will rotate to a neutral or oversteering trajectory. Then, typically you would get on the gas to send energy to the outside rear tire to manage the rotation and to drive your trajectory out of the turn.
So, bla, bla, bla… sorry I had to lay the groundwork. On to the banking- related stuff.
Camber/banking has a significant influence on the amount of traction a tire can produce, and on the amount of energy it will take to produce that traction. One (over simplified) way to think of this is that on a level track surface, much of the traction is kind of a shearing force (trying to push the contact patch across the track surface). However when you add banking (positive camber), then the traction is generated from a combination of the original shearing force plus some vertical force (the tire being pressed down into the banking). But to produce the same optimal slip angle from a flat turn, in a banked turn, you will have to provide more energy (you will have to carry more speed).
Back to the rotation and trajectory ideas again. The thing that all good drivers can do is manage the total amount of energy (speed) they carry into a turn such that they can bring the front tire to optimum slip angle ASAPractical, and the timing for building and maintaining that optimum slip angle produces an energy ‘bleed off’ rate that causes the energy on the front end to run out (peak), at the exact point in the turn where they want the kart to rotate (typically at the apex +/- a few feet).
If you don’t carry sufficient energy into banked turns, you’ll run out of energy early (before you want to rotate). That is, you will be driving a ‘trajectory’ into the turn, but once you run out of energy, you will lose slip angle, which means that your kart will no longer be able to maintain the trajectory you planned. This may feel like you are unpredictably changing line and/or are apexing way earlier than you intended. You may also find that you have trouble getting the kart to rotate, because the energy needed for rotation (the energy you were counting on returning to the chassis when the front tire’s energy peaks at the rotation point) has already been dissipated earlier in the turn; as the kart scrubs speed while it tries to maintain optimal slip angle.
So, ultimately, getting comfortable driving banked turns can require a bit of a leap of faith… you have to be willing to carry the speed into the turn to make the tires/kart ‘work’ all the way to the apex/rotation point.
Regarding how/when to introduce the kart into the banking; that depends a lot on the turn (banking amount/location, radius, etc.), but hopefully if you understand the tire/energy bit of it, it will be easier for you to figure out where to use the advantages of banking, within each corner, in order to reach your energy/slip angle/rotation and ultimately trajectory goals for each turn.