Birel CR832 -- Back from the Dead


(Ted Hamilton) #1

So… I came into a Birel CR832 (1999) with working 4wb, for the princely sum of $300… I also have acquired a freshly replated Rotax 257 (250cc) that just needs a piston / wristpin / bearing installed to be a runner, also for $300. Net result – with a little cleaning and restoring, I’ll have a $750 road racing setup. WKA has already issued me a provisional Unlimited license.

My question: has anyone here run one of these chassis, know what it likes, etc? I plan to remove as much caster and camber as possible due to the RR intent… And I’ll be fabbing up some custom bodywork too. (Think Shadow UoP CanAm…)

Input appreciated. I’ll be posting here as I progress. Time to strip it down and check for cracks and straightness (though I expect it’s fine on both counts.)


(Ted Hamilton) #2

Oddly, this has Enginetics masters with presumably Birel calipers…


(James McMahon) #3

So you’re building a 250 sprinter from it? Sounds like fun.


(Ted Hamilton) #4

It will be used mostly for long course road racing, Unlimited class, but I will probably play around with it at GoPro Motorplex. I want to get a modern frame and jump back into KA100 if I can find a cheap package deal…


(Benn Herr) #5

We ran a 2002 Birel for several years with a 250 on it. The kart handled well but got a little “floppy” after a few years. We went to a slightly newer one (2005 and 50 mm axle) and still have it. You will need to change the brakes. The old style you have use shims behind the pads and they will wear faster than the end of the race comes - you will chase the setup all the time. We went to Brembos and MCP masters on our and they never give a bit of trouble. We even put the old spindles on the newer kart when we got it. If you do that, get new masters and use DOT 3/4 fluid in them. The calipers work best with it and new masters can use either one. I wouldn’t worry about bodywork much. The biggest CIK nose and a Hegar type fairing is all you need. Here is a link to some pictures of our set-up. Brakes


(Ted Hamilton) #6

great setup…like the welded arms on masters…where did you find the brembo calipers?


(Ted Hamilton) #7

I’m considering mounting some suitable motorcycle calipers for ease of pad sourcing and compound choice. I figure doing that on fronts and leaving the rear as-is… thoughts? As long as the m/c volume actuates the motorcycle calipers enough – that seems the only issue to me. Mounting is simply an issue of adapter plates…and the disc width will require some choice of caliper. If I can find that brembo setup cheap, perhaps. But brakes aren’t something to skimp on or experiment with lightly… Esp. with a 250…


(Mike Giessen) #8

I recommend dumping the rear system as they are problematic as they get older in age no matter what you do to it.
MRP most likely still has the old style banana system that is bolt on. Paired up with the correct rotor and you’ll be safe.

Getting the front system to operate normally and not leak any fluid is key. Making sure the bore of the caliper is smooth and clean is key-might require a quick hone.


(Ted Hamilton) #9

Sounds like the safest option is a whole new braking system…at 4x the price of my package so far…lol 250s are no joke, though.