Briggs racers - how do you keep chain grease off your suit?

Hey guys. Just finished up my first full season of 206 racing, and my suits have been getting demolished by chain grease fling. Do you guys have any tips for keeping your suits fresh and keeping the grease off it? I use the wider JTP chain guard, but it doesn’t seem to FULLY cover the chain using the clutch on the inside. I’ve got a briggs chain guard extension that I’m thinking about either bolting or using zip ties to attach to the JTP guard to extend the coverage. I could also possibly move the engine closer to the seat, but not by much. I’ve thought about running the clutch on the outside and the clutch sprocket on the inside, but with a 4-hour endurance race coming up, I’m not sure the extra stress on the crank is worth it.

I use molecule wash, spot cleaner, and oxiclean (at the recommendation of freem), and while this combo does a great job on dirt… the darker grease stains (especially on white) are really, REALLY hard to get out. I soaked in oxiclean for 6 hours, and while it maybe lightened the stains 15% or so… I don’t think it’s a feasible solution moving forward, so I’m hoping to find some solution that can keep the grease off my suit in the first place! I’ve been using motul chain lube (either factory or off-road), so if you have a suggestion of a grease that’s easier to clean, I’d love to hear about it!

Thanks guys :slight_smile:

Here’s a good picture of my current set-up:

I’d always thought that sprocket next to the engine put less stress on the crank, but open to contradiction.

In UK fully enclosed chainguards have been mandatory for some time now. Must be a pain to fit and remove but should give a cleaner suit and kart.

Quite simply:

I don’t :man_shrugging:t4:

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You could add a bit of the right thickness rubber across the top to add width.
Add a second ‘chain guard’ to the seat strut bolt. It doesn’t have to be a full guard, more of a shield.

Lube chain after coming off track not right before going out. give it time to soak in and wipe off extra.

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I use Bel-Ray chain lube and it seems a lot less flingy than others.


Don’t use grease or oil based products they are slow. Altho, they may be the only option for endurance races
Evil Grin

I’ll have to look at the stuff I use. It’s probably some old crap as it came with a chassis I bought. But I don’t notice it slinging around anywhere. Couple of small spots on the seat is it. I haven’t gone down the rabbit hole of chain lube yet. I’ll devote a day to reading eventually and see what science says. But in the mean tome I’m staying clean.

A black suit should do the trick


DUCK TAPE. Seriously, fold over a strip of duck tape and add 1" to that JTP.
(Embarrassed to admit it took a few years to figure that one out. :roll_eyes:)

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The easiest way is to run the clutch inboard. If that is not an option, use a wax-based lubricant (Motul) and spray on the inside of the chain. This will spread out on the chain and help with the fling.

Is there nothing duct tape can’t do? :grinning:

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Just one more reason why it makes sense for 4 stroke chassis to have the engines on the left.


Or maybe use silicone grease? Super sticky stuff that is “clear”.

I’m going to try that with my new setup in place of the motul grease which does make quite a mess.

Don’t run grease or oil both are slow anyways.

You could always just qualify on pole, and then everyone is behind you. :stuck_out_tongue: jk


Wear a black suit. Problem solved

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What do you use instead? A dry chain will use enough energy to practically glow.

I used Molten Speed Wax, widely regarded as the gold standard of chain lubricants for sprint applications. We use it up to X30 levels of power on 219 chain. However, you can only do a single 15-20 lap session on an X30. On a KA an entire day and on a 206 usually multiple days/events without issue or increase in friction.

ive seen people who do that