For dummies instructions: Remove carb cap and fuel line to carb. Remove carb so you can flip it upside down. Take bowl off (two outermost screws looking at the carb from the bottom). Remove any brass colored item that will come out. Blow air through them or ultrasonic them and put them back in.
Pulled the carb today, disassembled it, and ran some carb cleaner threw every jet/ hole I could find. Started on the first pull with no choke. Sounded a bit off but I think thats because I need to play with the screws to get the mixture right. Its progress but I have no idea what I’m doing. Hindsight 20/20, I wish I would have counted each turn of the screws so I could put them back close to where they were before I messed with it.
Warm the motor up. Turn the idle speed screw clockwise until the engine idles around 2500. Then adjust the idle air screw around to find the max RPM. Next turn idle speed screw back to desired idle rpm.
I adjusted the circlip and (at the advice of someone I know) I backed both screws just about all the way out and used blue thread locker to keep them from basically falling out. Seemed to do the trick, its idoling fine now and not dying when I come off the throttle.
Catch cans are pretty easy, you can just make them with a bottle and zip ties. Both lines go in the bottle, with plenty of venting. I used a power steering fluid bottle, I think. Stayed put all year.
Briggs rules says crankcase and carburetor overflow must both go to a catch can. I suggest two separate or 1 with tons of venting. The key is to not let the crankcase pressurize the carb. It changes the fuel mixture and will cause a ton of issues.
Thanks for the input and pictures. In looking closely I notice all the pics have a different valve cover design than what I have. Mine is just a hose exiting the vavle cover whereas I am seeing more of a fitting that the hose can connect to. How did you set this up?