My brake pad retaining bolt stripped so I tried to use an extractor bit. The extractor broke and got stuck in the allen bolt which is now flush. Fun.
Could try to drill the head of the bolt with a diamond bit or something but I want to avoid spending $$$ if possible.
I am wondering if I can just take the 4 bolts out that hold the halves of the caliper together and screw the caliper apart to allow the bolt to come with it. Just got a vice and could use some soft jaws so I don’t damage the aluminum and a rubber hammer to lightly tap to split the caliper.
Anyone done this? Anything to be cautious of in the process I’m forgetting?
Get some ‘needle nose vise grips’ and turn the bolt from the middle until it’s free, then clean with file to allow it to slide out the smooth bore top hole? Liberal use of PB Blaster on the threaded side first…
And then to prevent this ever happening again, drill out the threaded side and use this (in appropriate pin size) to retain pads:
I’ll give that a try Ted. I attempted that with a normal vice grip and it just slipped as you can see in the photo. Will try with needle nose and see if it makes a difference.
Excellent idea about the quick release style pins and re-drilling. The design of the retaining bolt in the SA2 is not the best. Appreciate the response!
I spoke with a good friend, Charlie. I wouldn’t feel comfortable drilling that bolt out because you’re going to damage the threads. What he suggested was to take a Dremel and cut the bolt in the middle right where that cylindrical stop with the set screw is. Then take it out from there.
One more thing. I’ve seen a lot of people use a Nylock nut. They are a lifesaver, but when you put it to it next to something that’s generating over 500° all it’s going do is have that plastic nylon melt and stay stuck to the bolt.
The correct bolt is actually just a metal nut, and in the brake caliper, it has a little captive inlet so the nut can be held with your finger while you tighten the bolt. You don’t need to go Godzilla on it since it’s really small. What I also like to do is use that cylindrical piece with the set screw in place that as close to the right brake pad (when facing behind the kart).
This can ensure that if that metal nut comes loose, the chance of both brake pads coming out is minimal. Again, you don’t want to place it so close so it gets too hot, but I have never had an issue with that before.
Good advice above on cutting the bolt in half. That will ensure you are only working on the force holding one side. I would be pretty shocked if ViseGrips on the Center part would not get it turning. But you need a pair of real ViseGrips. Most other brands you will find are not of the same quality and metal. You need a newish pair. Like everything in life the teeth wear. You need nice sharp teeth. A flat jaw. And you need to make so tight that bust a nut squeezing them tight (and a flat screwdriver to pry the lever to release them when done).
I would use the OEM bolt. It would drive me nuts knowing it wasn’t. That’s not say other options won’t work. That’s my preference. If you use the right tool and proper technique you shouldn’t end up here again. Good luck!
