Bully Clutch Rebuild and Maintence


(Steve Pribyl) #1

I am wanting to up my clutch game and looking for advice.

I have some 4 spring bully clutches that are used on road racing animals.
Every year I buy some new friction disks and set the gap to .032 in using spacers, it the basket is beat I replace it. Usually by the end of the season I have removed all the spacers and swapped discs around to get the closest spacing.

I also adjust the sprint tension to get the desired engagement.
After every weekend I reset the gap, clean the bearings, dress and scuff the surfaces, and reset tension.
Drivers and bearings get replaced as they are worn or damaged.


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What else could I be going, are you screaming “NOOOOOO!” about something I just said.


(Dan Dedering) #2

Are you having issues? You didn’t state any problems with performance or reliability. Only thing I’d add would be, reassemble friction and floaters back together exactly the same way you took them off the clutch. Floater and friction disk take a set together, and should be run the same way. I use a fine wire brush to clean the friction plates (never solvent) and maybe lightly sand floaters and pressure plates with sandpaper on a surface plate.
My opinion, others may vary.


(Steve Pribyl) #3

No problems, just looking for improvement and sanity check. Self taught mechanic so I sometimes miss the basics.
I have not been replacing any of the steel yet, they are still flat and even. I do sand them lightly.


(Dan Dedering) #4

Just to add, years ago I had a disk clutch keyway drive hub crack. I used a spare Premier drum clutch as backup, it worked great and got me through the season. I won the championship CES for Sunday and took second for Saturday’s that year with that clutch. Never felt at a disadvantage using it. Sometime keeping easy works just as good.


(Steve Pribyl) #5

We used run with a $35 Max Torque ‘clone’ clutch. Got the job done that for sure.