Nothing wrong with Bully conversions. The drum is sloppy if it’s just sitting there, but when it’s engaged that’s irrelevant.
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I don’t see a difference in my driving approach than anyone else at my track (ideally), and there are several curbs that everyone puts all four tires over. There’s one particular chicane that entirely becomes a straightaway if someone knocks the barrier out of the way. They also run guards, although I do know a few who also run smaller driver sprockets. Still, I have the same gearing as another guy I run with a lot, and he has no issues with his guard.
I guess my bottom line point for this particular thread is to not buy a guard if you are cost-conscious until it seems absolutely necessary. With the Odenthal mount, I don’t find the guard necessary although I’d still like to eventually swap over to smaller gears so I can run one for the added insurance.
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I’m assuming you used an aluminum guard?
nothing really wrong with the bully driver, as matt mentions, but it wears out your drum a bit, where the driver fits in. you might as well just use the hilliard drum and driver, because, and i’m not sure the technical term, the hilliard driver is splined, and fits better in the drum.
Couple product I really like- 1.) Odenthal mount 2.) Hilliard Clutches, and 3.) Alfano 6.
On a side note, I’m a huge fan of the black plastic sprocket guards. I had aluminum when I first started, and you’d bend them the first time you go off road. And they were more expensive to replace. So I switched to the cheaper and more forgiving plastic ones that flex and don’t bend in the event you do go on safari. 
I had the opposite experience with plastic guards - went from aluminum to plastic hoping for the same benefits you outline, but the plastic ones kept failing at the fasteners. I used larger and larger washers until I ran out of room, still had same issue. But that was Rocket Sprocket and the fastener holes are on “ears” vs. part of circle like that G-Man one.
I went back to the aluminum one, but this weekend will be trying a carbon one for the first time - complete with fancy titanium fasteners. Hopefully it wasn’t a waste of money.
But haven’t thrown a chain in 3 seasons of bump-and-grind Cadet racing since installing the guards, so definitely a fan of finding a guard that works for you.
I’m going to switch my boy to mini gears next season, then we’ll have loads of clearance under the sprocket.
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Same. I have an odenthal mount and have never had any issues with throwing chains without a chain guard. The guards would get bent in one session, rub the chain, make sprocket swaps annoying, etc. I just ditched it and went no guard and have not had any issue all year.
I do however have a 30mm axle collar clamped to the rear cross bar of the chassis directly in front of the sprocket to keep curbs and/or the edge of the track off the sprocket.
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After getting the chain tension to what I want, when I go to tightening the Odenthal mount, the tension changes.
I think this is because the engine tipsa little when the fasteners are lose. I’d love a tip on how to set the chain tension and the tighten up the mount.
Just push on the engine so it sets flat on the base plate while you’re doing it
Follow up here, anyone have any experience with the kits? Seen several at varying price points, some offer setting the valves/carb etc so curious about people’s experience
If you’re just starting out I would look for a used motor to start getting your laps in. I was a customer of Comet when Gary Lawson did their engines and I’ve followed him to own venture with Lawson Speed Shop. Box stock motors can win and do! For me and many others it’s just one less variable.
(I just wanna focus on driving)
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Can you elaborate on what you are looking for? We have established the mount and clutch and the remaining items are fairly standard for everyone (exhaust, fuel pump, filter and chain guard). What else are you looking for?
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I’m guessing if “blueprinted” motors are worth it or not.
Sorry, let me clarify: there are several kits available which all seem to be mostly similar, I was curious about people’s experience actually putting them together, support from the seller, etc.
Here are the ones I have looked at:
Personally I’d go with the TS Racing option. For what it includes, it’s a great package in my opinion. I just picked up a short block from them. Great customer service. If you’re not in central Florida, it still wouldn’t prevent me from buying from them. Fortunately they’re only just over an hour away from me.
We do new engines with prep and dyno tune for not much more than that. It’s not that great of a price.
Exhaust, silencer and heat wrap, air filter, fuel pump and chain guard as well? That’s got to be well over $200 of add ons if you buy a box stock 206 and have to buy everything else as well 
Fuel pump comes with the core engine.
If you wanna buy it all retail and put it together and set it up… sure… You still gotta do everything the engine tuner does without the benefit of running it on a dyno to optimize that specific engine.
Or for slightly more than their kit, you can get an engine that is prepped, broken in, and dyno tuned ready to bolt on with support for your issues via text and phone almost 24/7.
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I just hold the engine forward (making sure its seated on the base correctly), and tighten the mount at the same time. Obviously I don’t use the strength of Zeus to push the engine forward, but just enough to make sure there’s some tension on the chain.
A good chain alignment helps as well.
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