# Buying a replacement chain

How can I tell which chain to buy to replace the one on my son’s kid kart?

Kid kart so I’m guessing 219 chain. Can you post a pic of it? The. Then you need to count the links in it and buy appropriately or buy longer and use a chain breaker.

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These fine people have a great guide on how to figure out what kart chain pitch you have:

https://cutpriceracing.com.au/store/Page17/

How do I know what pitch I have on my kart?

The easiest way to determine the pitch is to measure either a sprocket or a chain from your kart. If it’s #35 pitch it will measure approximately 10mm (9.525mm = 3/8 inch), if it’s #219 pitch it will measure approximately 8mm (7.774mm). The reason we measure approximately is because these tow chain pitches are measured in imperial inches rather than metric mm. 219 is a very unusual pitch as it is not 5/16 inch as often incorrectly reffered to as. It is wise to note that #219 pitch chain is not 8mm pitch chain – 8mm chain is Metric and is not used on Racing Go Karts in Australia in general.

#35 Pitch = approx 10mm (9.525mm)

#219 Pitch = approx 8mm (7.774mm)

#40 , #428, #41 & #420) = approx 13mm (12.70mm)

*(NOTE: 41 & 420P plates are spaced closer together (1/4") compared to 40 & 428P which are 5/16" - this means you can use a 428P chain on a 420P sprocket, but you can’t use a 420P chain on a 428P Sprocket)

If it’s not of the above pitches, you have a different chain pitch and we cannot offer you solutions at this time.

However, you can identify it by using the table below:

The sprocket is an 89. Picture below.

From the above post, I am guessing that it is a 219.

219 for sure. The other thing you need, mentioned above is the number of links. At some point you’ll find yourself needing to break the chain, but for now if you can find one the same length, it’ll save you having to deal with that right now.

It’s a 219 since it’s the Honda motor. FYI your going to have to get a chain breaker since the chains on the inside, well that or pull the whole rear end out.

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Thanks. How loose should the chain be?

It’s been such a long time since I’ve actual measured it, I just do it by eye and feel now. But I think I remember being told about 1/2 inch of total play at the mid point between front and rear sprocket. I would always error on the loose side vs tight side. I have zero experience with a kid kart so I might be wrong but I don’t want a chain binding my motor up from being to tight.

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I run Ethans pretty loose. I am guessing there is a little over 1/2" of play. I just do it by feel at this point. If its too tight it wont spin freely on the stand and if its too loose the chain will bounce around and try to wrap down around the rear sprocket. It took playing with it a few times to get it in the middle the first time around.

I measured with a digital caliper around 0.8”

Is that too much? Time for a new chain?

Are you measuring up/down play or side to side?

Up and down is generally adjusted by moving the engine fore/aft on the chassis. For that you want to see about 1/2” total play, give or take.

Unless it gets chewed up from going off track or an accident the kid karts dont really eat chains, they just dont have the power. I actually have pieced together 2 18 year old chains on my sons kart that I used on a Yamaha back in the day. I have a new one in the box just waiting for him to chew it up to replace it.

if you have 3/4 of an inch of up and down play losen the motor mount push the motor slightly forward (like 1/8" and tighten it back down. It will likely take a couple of times to get it right.

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I tried getting the motor loose and can’t seem to break them. The guys who screwed the motor to the chassis really cinched it down and I am guessing used lock tight. My impact driver can’t budge it. Any ideas on how to safely loosen those screws?

Oh man. They must have used red lock tight. They really don’t need to be that tight. Short of using a large breaker bar I am not sure what to tell you.

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Use a small butane torch to melt the loctite and use a breaker bar so you can slowly increase pressure on the fastener and feel if it’s about to yield.

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You shouldn’t need loctite on a motor mount. You adjust them enough that you need to be able to free up the mount easily.

Tightening down and engine stop is enough. Just don’t crush the tubes.

I got it out! … so I have to share.

It took the Hason by Irwin, multispline ext set, a cobalt drill bit, and a 12” breaker bar.

That’s insane. Makes me think it was more than just loctite