Hi Guys!
Whats your opinions on the DQ vs DP emulsion tubes for kz (TM R1)? I’ve a good selection of both and will be experimenting in the next couple of weeks.
I would be interested to hear from the experience of others on here
1 Like
edited for clarity
DQ atomizers are just over 2mm longer than DP atomizers, meaning the DP atomizers richen the fuel curve by way of getting onto the needle taper earlier. Your needs are going to vary based on your application and fuel/oil rules. While I don’t own any DP atomizers, I use a setup that emulates a DP268 when breaking in engines after a full rebuild. After that I use strictly DQ atomizers.
My mates and I use DQ emulsion tubes, we thought that DP was strictly a euro thing.
We haven’t been able to get a consistent tune with DP emulsion tubes and thought that the nature of the tracks in Europe were different to Australia in that ours are a lot more stop start compared to there and somehow the DP suited their tracks better for some reason.
Having said that I am sure you could use the rest of the jets to tune around whichever emulsion tube is used. Build on what works for you.
I’ve been chating with a few guys now and there all running DQ emulsion tubes.
It would be interesting to hear from somone who tested the DP vs DQ.
I’ve used both, the DP was easier to drive with in the bottom end.
But I could get a more stable jetting with DQ atomizers
1 Like
I found the same. DP bogs a bit on bottom, but you can compensate by raising the clip position.
For others on this thread:
DP268 & K98 is the stock combo
DQ268 & K28 is a pretty common “race” combo
1 Like
Seeing as my KZ is also a Rok I usually run a DQ268 as that’s the one that is spec in Rok. I occasionally (at like one track) swap to a DQ266 because of the thinner air at higher altitude.
Yep!
DQ267-269 and k23 needle for me, CD1 or B50-52 for the most part for me
1 Like
It’s crazy to me that some engines a CD1 works, even heard of some guys using a B100. I’m usually in the B35 to B45 range.
1 Like
Yeah CD1 is wild. I’ve raced on a B100 before but that was on a rented engine a few years ago…I’ve found it tougher to drive vs smaller sizes.
That said, the sizes you mention are quite small. Are you running a big outer, and do you ever have issues controlling minimum EGT?
It’s rare I’m on the B35, but the B45 is my norm. Usually at a 60 outer, occasionally down to a 50. Haven’t had any issues to date. I also run the Sunoco 98 unleaded fuel so it probably tunes different.
1 Like
I have yet to adjust the idle emulsion tubes. Is there much of an impact in changing these?
The DP emulsion tubes are slightly more common in europe where the fuels are different.
The DQ has been the go to for at least 20 years now.
Inner Pilots/Idle Emulsion tubes don’t make a huge difference, however they will vary based on the other jets and needle selected.
If you want some fairly well proven settings to try;
K23
DQ267 - DQ268
B100
60 Inner/60 Outer
2.5 Turns out on the air screw
Clip 2.5
Start at 150 main jet and modify as needed
1 Like
How’s the K23 compare to a K98? I’m looking at those idle jet sizes and on my vortex with a K98 needle I’d be so rich on the bottom it’d be difficult to get a decent start. If the K23 is thicker at the tip than it makes more sense because you’d get less fuel from the needle and thus need more from the idle jets. So many ways to jet a dellorto it can make your head spin.
K23 is slightly richer than the K98. Slightly narrower top (clip area), and slightly longer taper.
That setting (approx) is what Franco from TM was running in most the factory engines at Supernats.
Generally speaking, less experienced drivers will do better with a leaner setting. The K98 is the leanest needle that Dellorto makes, which makes it popular as it’s unlikely to load up on fuel at low revs.
The needles I’ve tested and know are fairly well accepted are; K95, K96, K23, K28, K98.
Keep in mind that this is all for TM. Vortex uses a different version of the VHSH30CS that uses a different float assembly, slide, needle and seat.
1 Like
Yeah I’m just using my Rok shifter carb on my RVXX since that’s what I have and I’ve been able to tune it in just fine, but interesting to see the differences. Definitely not a less experienced driver, but always more to learn. If I ever decide to get a TM I’ll have to relearn a bit on the jetting to make that work, but as of now I’ve been able to run with R1’s without issue. I didn’t race at all this year so haven’t gone against an R2 yet.
It’s the same carb. I remember when I ran an RVXX with the factory we were using U-Series needles (U11 I believe), CD1 inner pilot, 60 outer and 120-130 main jets. I never looked at the emulsion tube or air screw.
1 Like
I don’t get down quite that low on main jets often, but I have before.
As others said, equivalent number DP is roughly 6 points richer than a DQ. (ergo: DP268 = DQ274 ish)
If you want a really far out carb tune that i have “concocted” over some time :
60 slide
U12, 4th position
133-135 main jet
DQ266
B65 inner / 60 outer
EGTs @ 20 degrees celcius air temp:
600 high
480 low,
on 98 octane pump gas
Found it to be particularly strong in the mid range vs other “regular” K needles 
4 Likes