Drago Corse Chassis Setup

Hey Everyone,

Curious if anyone else here runs the drago chassis and knows what the “baseline” setup is i have had a look around online and cant find anything just trying to go back to neutral and re adjust from there.

happy to share my setup if the drago is similar to another brand

Thanks

Should tune relatively similar to a Magik Kart. Both manufactured by EKS.

KZ or OK ? I can help

Brought it running a Rotax Max so id assume its an OK Chassis.

so it’s a condor frame - check the below

FRONT END
Toe 1mm out each side
Camber Negative 4mm each side
Scrub Radius 145mm (55mm spacers)
Caster Reduced by 2 holes ie one hole on top and one on the bo om (in high grip, add addi onal castor by laying top of kingpin to rear of kart)
Front Ride Height Central – 1 washer under stub
Ackerman on Column Central
Ackerman on Stub Long hole
Hub STD 75mm
Front Torsion Bar 1.0 mm (steel)
Front Torsion Bar Bolts bolts fitted
Lower Crash Bar Tight
Upper Crash Bar Tight
REAR END
Width 1395-99mm
Ride Height Low or Central
Third Bearing Fitted with no bolts; cable tie to chassis
Hubs STD EKS 95mm
Axle Green 1m
Side Pods Loose
Floor Pan Neutral
REAR BUMPER
Vertical clamps Loose
Horizontal bolts Loose
Tube in Chassis Secure
SEAT POSITIONING
Type/Size JECKO B3
Stays L/R None
A (kingpin to top lip of spine) 1015 - 1025 mm
B (spine to axle center) 185 - 195 mm
C (bottom of seat rel. to chassis) Flush with tube
Seat Base Parallel to the ground
Lead Weight Placement Spread evenly across the seat
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Thats awesome mate thanks, had a quick check and alot of the stuff in particular the seat positioning seems way different although i have a “X Seat” instead of a jecko,

From the kingpin im about 1050 out with a seat stay on both sides, hoping to get a practice day in next weekend so i will try change some stuff Thanks alot.

before moving the seat, try the other adjustments as suggested.
it should help to give you a baseline on where to start :slight_smile:

Hi Guys. I’m also new to Karting &

need some setup advice. Just bought

a 2025 Drago Frame and have no Idea what the neutral settings should be.

Frame Tag RM-01 CIK-FIA 009 CH 54. Is there a Drago manual? could I use the same values as the ones you gave above for the Condor Frame?

Thanks a mil!

I have had success on the same chassis with a setup similar to the one list above:

  • Middle ride heights front and rear
  • -2mm to -4mm camber per side
  • Green axle 1000mm
  • No seat struts
  • Neutral caster or zero pills on bottom
  • Nylon front bar (versus the steel bar mentioned above - I have not liked that bar)
  • Standard hubs front and rear
  • MXC equivalent wheels (not sure who makes them, but believe they are standard for EKS mfg’d chassis)
  • 1390mm to 1400mm rear width
  • Seat flush with bottom of chassis rails - I do not have the seat measurements on top of my head, but have used a softer seat
  • Toe: 1mm-2mm out per side
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0039 makes them.

20chars

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See above for their seat placement chart.

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Thank you Chris. Will try it out this weekend.

:slight_smile:hat I’ve also noticed, is that there is general consensus, regardless of Frame Manufacturer, for chassis setup i.e. ride height, castor/camber and Tyre axle width to solve most Kart-handling problems on track. The devil is in the detail - how sensitive the chassis reacts to small changes:)

Looking forward to many discussions idea exchanges :+1:

I have one more question which confuses me… difference between CAMBER and TOE. Does it have to do with adjusting Kingpin(camber) and Tie rods(toe) ?

Toe is adjusted with the tie rods, camber with the kingpin pills, correct.

I don’t have a good diagram outlining toe / camber / caster for a kart, but here is a diagram for a car.

You obviously cannot adjust toe / camber / caster in the rear wheels of a kart like you can in a car.

There are many good videos on YouTube (Power Republic, KartClass, etc.) on adjusting these items in a kart. How / when / why to adjust each.

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