First kart project! Completely new to karts, guidance needed

Hello everyone, first time poster here so be gentle! Haha!

First off, just wanted to say that im very excited to be here and to be able to post this. Im 43, from NY (about 30 mins from OVRP) and have wanted a kart since childhood. I grew up right next door to a place called Gross Graphics. Chip Gross was an avid kart racer back in the 80s-90s and i would spend most of my free time in his shop around his karts dreaming of having one someday. This is what sparked my interest in motorsports. I grew up following all types of motorsports and eventually got into auto road course racing/hpde in my late 30s. Currently attending 10-12 events a year at WGI, Lime Rock Park and NJMP.

Yesterday, I was given an older kart from a co-worker. Aside from being around these as a child, i know absolutely nothing about karts/parts. Its rough and I still have not identified the chassis. I believe it may be 2000’s Birel chassis of some sort. The only marking on the chassis is 0175 stamped on the caliper bracket. Aside from needing a cleaning, paint or powdercoating, its actually in pretty good shape with no cracks! The frame tubing is 32mm and it has a 40mm rear axle. I got it with no engine.

Couple things i know i need initially.

  1. An engine.
  2. Caliper rebuild (SKM)
  3. New hardware for just about everything
  4. Possible steering shaft (seems bent, not sure if it was intentional.
  5. Bearings seem good but may replace due to age.
  6. New seat.
  7. Rear bumper/plastic?

Most of this stuff seems straightforward. The engine however has raised many questions and i could use some guidance. Dont see myself racing this anytime soon but would like to get it out for some open practice/lapping this year. I would also like to take this opportunity to get my son out there to learn as well as he is just as big of a gearhead as I am. Im assuming id be looking for a single speed setup around 10hp? So many engine options and configurations. Any guidance on something simple, with enough power and turn key would be greatly appreciated.

Also, if anyone can recommend a good place to buy decent hardware aside from my local HDW store that would be great. Some of these fasteners seem to be specialty fastenes with drilled/safety clip bolts.

Here it is!












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Welcome! The go-to entry level class these days for most places is Briggs LO206. But karting very regional so make a trip down to your local track and see what classes are supported locally. I’m sure we have some OVRP regulars here to advise as well.

Definitely not a Birel but looks like an SKM/Italkart based kart of some sort maybe?? With the nerf bar configuration it’s probably no older than a 2005/6.

The rear bar config will easily work for a 206.

Probably need a full sized rear bumper for modern rules but otherwise you should be good to go.

Go see Tim Hannen at OVRP for sure. He can help you with a lot of the small details.

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LO206 looks like a great option.

I have no engine mount and see many options. I know my bars are 32mm and 92mm spacing.

Is there something out there budget friendly for a beginner or should i spring for the odenthal mount?

Has anyone heard of Rakama out of Italy? I found this on the side bars. I tried some searching but cant come up with anything.

I got it down to the frame last night. Started stripping the frame in prep for powder coating. The chrome bars may get powder as well. My local chromer is very expensive.

Can anyone tell me what these clamps are for? They seems to be in a place where they cant come off. Not sure what thier purpose is.

I’ve heard of Rakama, but I don’t know much unfortunately. Poking around on the internet with the homologation, I did find this topic on ekartingnews that points to it possibly being a Mike Wilson chassis. One caveat being that the homolgation number is not for a chassis.

https://www.ekartingnews.com/forums/topic/iame-leopard-production-date/

Is there a similar tag on the rear crossbar behind the seat? It should have CH as the middle part.

There are some budget friendly mount options out there, the Odenthal mounts are very nice, but not a necessity

The clamp is likely a torsion adjustment. Very interesting placement… It could also be covering a break or crack.

New update and a couple of questions.

Got the kart stripped, blasted and powder coated. Its coming along nicely. Spent a lot of time cleaning up all the rusty chrome. Some is not salvageable. Its in good structural form but some of the more crusty bars are too nasty to put on the fresh chassis. May have to find a pair of KG unico nerf bars.

Im replacing every bearing on the kart. Today i spent some time setting up the rear axle with the new bearings. Are fresh new bearings a bit draggy? Axle spins but not as freely as ive seen. Im sure its fine.

Still need to get lots more hardware. Every nut and bolt on this were crispy and ultasonic cleaning didnt help much. Do you guys use stainless hardware? I got some stainless hdw for the rear axle cassettes from my local hdw store, 9 bolts washers ans nuts set me back 45 bucks. Ouch.

Still need to get a rear bumper and mounts to replace the rear bumper bar. Also new graphics. I reached out to OMX about a KG Unico graphics kit. Theyre saying to order a Stilo kit but doesnt seem the same as mine from the images i can find.

Im absolutely loving this project. Ive always wanted a kart and rebuilding this is and learning about karts is just so much more enjoyable.



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The hardware store is going to be your most expensive option. I have had good luck with Amazon and eBay (seller Monster Bolt) and McMaster Carr are all good options. Stainless isn’t necessary unless it will be stored in a damp location.

Fresh bearings will be very tight. They will run in with use. Make sure the axle slides in the bearings before tightening the set screws.

Also, the sprocket will likely not work as it is too large of a diameter and will high side on kerbs or when you go off track.

Barbie drift bike is :fire:
Lucky kid.

You likely will not want or need the center bearing, especially in 206. Some will leave it in so it is loose to the frame (no bolts). In watching your video I see it is a one piece sprocket. That will make any change of gear much harder as you will have to slide the axle out. The two piece will allow gear changes without doing this. You may want to consider a sprocket guard as well.

Personally, I would stay away from stainless hardware; it’s for boats and lawn furniture. Unless you get REALLY expensive stainless hardware, It’s generally not as strong as a decent grade of alloy steel at a fraction of the price. I usually try to get cadmium or zinc plated alloy steel hardware. The plating keeps the corrosion to a minimum vs. the more standard black oxide coating. Mcmaster-Carr is your best friend…

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