I would presume that if they are stuck on the Subaru engine package, then they or someone nearby is a Dealer and should make parts relatively easy to source. If the engine is on par (although faster) with the LO206, then maintenance should be minimal anyway from a motor stand point. Do you have an idea on cost of the Subaru package? I know LO206 race ready (Engine, throttle linkage, clutch and mount) goes for somewhere around $1000. In comparison, a KA100 (entry level 2 stroke) starts at more than double that. If the price for the Subaru is close to the LO206, it may be worth is to get both and just swap over when you want to travel to other tracks.
I also agree with Dom on the closeness thing. A long drive home is the last thing you want after a day at the races. It can be demanding on your body and leave you pretty wiped out. I might have faired better in my younger days, but at 45 it takes its toll. Bring some bananas and drink plenty of water.
Oh yeah. Sorry for context I am early 50s but in good shape. Your mileage (and pain) will vary.
Another thing, after a few years of doing this…
The important thing is doing it. I discovered I was plenty happy keeping it simple and close to home, cheap. I have learned more by doing more. A lot more.
TLDR: engine don’t matter, butt in seat does. Take closer, cheaper option and enjoy it more frequently.
I took a look at the Monticello site and Speedhive results, it doesn’t appear they have a large 4 stroke contingent in general (subaru or 206). It looks like they mostly have 2 stroke stuff, but can’t say that with absolute certainty. From what I gathered it looks like their “enduro” class (whatever that is) might run the subaru engines? Definitely hard to find good information.
Just ordered the LO206. I’ll also build my Hemi Clone for Monticello. That way I have opinions. I’m ultimately hoping Monticello’s 4 stroke group grows, because its almost 95% 2 stroke folks racing there.
Hitting a bit of a brick wall, mostly due to lack of knowledge . . .
I have the LO206 engine, engine mount, header/ exhaust, muffler, air filter, and few other odds and ends from TSRacing.com to add to my roller chassis.
I need to order a clutch and front/ rear sprokets, but I have no idea what to order. There are so many tooth combinations I’m a bit apprehensive to order anything because I have no idea what to order. I understand changes will most likely need to be made based on the tracks I’m racing on, but WTF do you start with when your just trying to figure it out and you have zero seat time?
You’ll want a Hilliard Inferno clutch with two white and two black springs driving a 15-tooth #35 driver, and driven sprockets with 53, 56, 59, 62, and 65 teeth. That’ll get you close on gearing at the vast majority of tracks. The 206 is fairly insensitive (<0.1s/lap) to two-tooth changes, so having a three-tooth gap isn’t really a problem.
Ended up reaching out to Kacy Stahl via Stahl Racing. I’m a huge fan of their Youtube channel. He was gracious enough to check with Jorge from JaM racing (another Youtube channel I follow) who frequently runs 206 at both tracks, so I was instructed to run the following:
19-67 for Ocala
19-65 for Monticello
Moral of the story is twofold. 1.) Its a small world. 2.) These folks that put out Youtube content really do have a interest in helping people join the sport. Super humbled they were so forthcoming with their knowledge.
Back to the funny part. Jorge at JaM Racing is the one who initially sold me my used chassis. Just some random guy who ran a for sale ad on the interwebs that I just happen to respond too. I had my buddy pick it up from him, so I never met Jorge from JaM Racing face-to-face.
So my new 206 came in the mail so today I did my best impression of a monkey Fu#king a football as I tried to piece things together on my kitchen table. I used flame proof paint on the exhaust and the muffler (not shown) but it dawned on me when you order these kind of parts, fasteners don’t seem to be included (which is pretty lame IMHO) so tomorrow I’ll be off to the hardware store as I source fuel lines, bolts, washers, clamps, etc. . . . (Lucky for me I had some extra fuel line laying around from a mini bike project) I also installed the Hillard Inferno clutch.
I am scratching my head regarding two things. Throttle cable into the carb, and just the throttle set up in general. Lots of small parts in the kit, but no instructions from TSracing.com, just a fadded picture included the size of a business card.
I have a similar throttle setup. Basically it’s two cables. One short cable that (usually) stays on the engine/carb, the other goes all the way to the pedals.
There should be a quick release hook/clip to join the two cables together somewhere in the middle of the two brackets.
Can I ask a question regarding karting schools . . .
Are they required?
Do you get some sort of racing license?
Do certain tracks or racing organizations require it?
Only reason I ask is because I don’t think I’d gleen much value from it. Not that I’m a know-it-all, as I’m sure I could learn a little something. But I’ve already had extensive high speed driver 's training in a former life, as I used to train law enforcement.
Most tracks don’t require a school. Some require you to wear a duct-tape rookie stripe on your helmet or rear bumper and start the first heat from the back.
But, some tracks/clubs do require a class of some sort for newbies who want to race. When you inquire about becoming a member or participating in a series, they will articulate this.
My general observation is, if one’s available, do it even if not required. Unless you are already very skilled, (line, braking, flags, etc). In your case, probably not necessary from what you said.
What Dom said, you do not need to do kart driving school, but it can definitely help improve your driving. Really depends on how much it is and your skill level. I think one of the best things about karting school or having a person coach you at the track is that you can get better much quicker than you would by yourself, especially when you’re first starting out, and it can help you avoid developing bad habits.
I don’t think I’m going to do karting school, but for some people it can be worth it
So I spent some time yesterday and got the engine mated up to the chassis. I replaced the rear sprocket and sprocket mount, as the old one was stripped out pretty bad and the mounting holes were oval in shape from age. I’m still playing with the catch can, as its a two bolt mounting system but I just have it mated to the engine with one bolt. Maybe I’m missing a mounting bracket of some kind?
I think the only items I have left is to cut and install the 219 chain, figure out how to rig the throttle cable, fill it with oil, and finally start the break in process on the engine.
I did notice my exhaust looks a bit different than most I’ve seen, that tend to sweep back and at an angle. Whereas mine just shoots straight back. I have no idea if I’ll need to swap that out later?
I received my new (used) kart suit and chest protector. Its a snug fit. Might motovate me to drop some weight, lol. Between the suit, the chest protector, and the neck protector, I think I’m into everything for about $120 off eBay.
Still waiting on my kart stand, the ebay seller is taking forever it feels to ship it.
Air and gas and you are good to go! I have seen lo206 exhausts pointing in all sorts of directions. Maybe someone knows if it matters. It’s gonna take me a bit to get used to the chain/sprocket being on the inside.
Not at all, the 206 is an inboard engine (sprocket toward the seat), I think dom is referring to not being used to it because most 2 strokes run outboard engines (sprocket toward the rear right wheel). The way you mounted the sprocket is on the correct side for your motor.
