Do you guys have suggestions, im in the front pack on the friday practuses mos of the time, but when we get to saturday and theres a lot of grip we get to a standstill where we cant seem to find more time neither in driving nor setup and there doesnt seem to be a big problem on handling like oversteer, but we tried to change from standard axle to soft axle + short hub from standard and there wasnt ANY difference in either handling or time
Idk what to do here we seem kinda stuck and the pattern is always the same when the track get grippy we’re on a standstill
What class, track, tire, chassis, engine?
If the kart balance feels good but you start to struggle when the track improves, the kart is binding and needs some setup help to free it up.
TJ is spot on. This is one of the hardest things to understand as a newer driver. If the kart feels perfect, but is slow, you need to free it up.
Feeling good and fast early in the day/weekend is always an “uh-oh” moment for me.
What chassis/engine package are we looking at here?
I drive with a Tony kart in rotax Jr. TonyKart/Rotax Jr.
What worries me is that changing to both a softer axle and short hubs didnt make any difference? And we did it exactly because we thought the kart was binding?
I thought you go to stiffer axles and longer width with grip coming?
I think you definitely want to go to an H or an HH in your situation.
What’s a simple fix for binding for front end and rear end? To try. Rear involves narrowing?
You went the wrong way. On the OTK you need to go stiffer on the rear to free it up. As Matt said, go to the H axle and see if that helps.
You could try playing with track widths but I would try the axle first honestly. It’s a bigger swing but you need to get to a better baseline level when the grip goes down and little tweaks like track width won’t get you to the right baseline.
I also never change hubs on the OTK. I run medium hubs 100% of the time.
Only race 206 but definitely felt the difference in grip when CKNA came to Pitt and we switched tires to Vega from Mojo. We put the H axle in and messed with ride height and immediately took the hop away.
Yeah i know but the thing is i had too much lift and slided because of it and didnt seem to help and thats why we also didnt go further in on the back end
Your original post said the kart wasn’t oversteering, but now you’re saying it is lifting too much and sliding?
The H axle will calm the rear down and stabilize it when the grip level rises, while keeping the rear free.
If you’re too soft, you can lift and noodle and lose your side bite causing a slide… @tjkoyen ?
Yeah sorry was thinking about the friday when i posted where it was fine but it lifted too much saturday mb
All my teamates ran the long Q axle and had no problems though im about 7-15cm taller than them, can that have a noticeable effect?
Driver height has a big effect on how the kart will transfer weight.
So the kart was good Friday and then when rubber went down on Saturday, it started lifting too much.
Yeah, that is a sign you need the H axle and possibly to reduce caster.
Q axle is the rain axle or cold weather axle.
You are describing our struggle over the past 16 months learning this sport. 6-4” driver in a Briggs OTK on one of the most gripped up tracks you will encounter.
1). Lower HP (Briggs) shows impact of binding even more than the higher HP classes.
2). Taller drivers feel the benefits of low grip and have more work to do to overcome high grip.
3). MXC wheel’s definitely help with high grip consistency during a run.
4). Hard axle definitely helps free the rear predictably.
5). Full width on rear is a go to for us.
6). We run as much as 3-4 mm/dots camber per side (sniper measured) in high grip
6). We also tend to run less caster and narrower front.
7). Bar vertical or horizontal is something we might tinker with, but that is one my son is not consistent in his preference on.
8). We have found he likes the feel more with short hubs in the heat.
9). Seat is as low and tilted as we can manage, washers are tucker up inside the seat lip.
The driver also has to adapt! You can get away with faster more aggressive wheel inputs in lower grip. The more grip that is present, the more important a smoother wheel input on entry through mid corner becomes. If you upset the kart and set the inside wheel down or get the kart bouncing, you will lose exit speed.
Now let an expert like @tjkoyen disect what we have been doing and tell you how much is the wrong direction!!!
You sound like you’ve figured it out Chuck! Agree on all points.
As my first year back in the sport in 20 years, that all sounds about right with what I’ve learned so far as well, and is also what I have been doing all year lol.