Help Me Decide what to Race Next Year

2027 is a ways away but given that this season has started and I’m seeing what people are running locally, I can start to plan. Its been taking up way too much mind-space to be undecided, so I’m looking for assistance from you all.

Some context: I have a clean slate for 2027 (no kart no motor), and I’m purely coaching this year to save up some funds, mainly for one of the local teams. I plan on racing locally exclusively next year. I have raced KA for a while now and have all of those types of parts, like sprockets, hubs, chains, etc.. If I do manage to pony up the cash and run a STARS, USPKS, Route, or other series race, I think I would just rent stuff. Most of the cost of those races comes from the tent fee, tires, and hotel anyhow.

The local series is the Northeast Kart Challenge for me. It has expanded and spread out a bit in terms of what people are racing. The race this past weekend looked like this:

4 shifter entries. Normally there are 1-2 more, but this does seem to be a rapidly growing class.

8 KA entries. This seems about representative.

9 TAG entries, split between rotax and x30 which run together.

I feel like I’ve “proven” what I need to in my karting career, so I’m really just looking to have fun at a reasonable cost. To me, I’m categorizing “reasonable” as buying a solid package for $6k or less, and then not exceeding $500 in expenses outside of the entry per race - this includes tires, amortized rebuilds, parts, and fuel.

The options I’ve considered so far are:

  1. Going back to KA. The pros of this is that I know it quite well, it’s simple in the fact that its air cooled, I think I could get a lot of life in the rebuilds with how competitive the club is, and generally costs are fairly low. For reference, I was spending about $220/race outside of the entry fee since I was getting good life out of tires and not doing rebuilds often for club. The cons are that it could be kinda boring in terms of competition, and I feel ready to try something new.
  2. Switching to rotax. Pros are the team I’m coaching primarily runs this, it is the most competitive class at the club, runs on pump gas, rebuild intervals are long. Cons are that I’m not seeing it as super different in terms of lap time/performance compared to KA, so it might be a bit boring.
  3. Switching to OK-N. Pros are that direct drive is badass and I could run with the shifter class. It would give a challenge to keep up with them, and not to mention I can get a Vortex OK-N complete package (exhaust, carb, mount, airbox) from someone I know for $1500. Cons are that I’m unsure of just how much of a pain in the a$$ it would be to start, and I’ve heard that running costs can be expensive due to very frequent rebuilds. What I’m unsure of is if those rebuilds are necessary for peak performance, or just to keep the thing running - given that I’m doing club racing I don’t need it to be 100/100, and I recognize that TM is the preferred manufacturer for top OK-N performance.
  4. Switch to shifter. The pros is that it is a growing class, and would be a blast to have front brakes and a gearbox. I’d be able to start it by myself on an open practice day (unsure of an OK-N). Cons are that getting started would be right up against my budget, all the spares I have would be pretty much useless, and it’s a class specific chassis.

I am generally between options 2, 3, and 4. Help! :slight_smile:

Just being honest for your general and race day budget KZ shifter is going to blow through that. Right now you won’t even be buying a new KZ for $6k let alone a full package. I’ll soon know the running costs of FZ but it should be the “Rotax” of shifters. Hopefully the momentum continues and the fields grow throughout the US. Once I get the demo kart up and running I’ll give some Kartpulsers a chance to rip it.

If I personally continued staying in TAG racing I would continue with Rotax. Super long maintenance intervals. It was so nice just getting premium pump gas on the way to the track and it actually made more power that way with the ethanol in pump gas. Our Masters field has a good group of guys to race with. Lastly no other engine package gives you the opportunity to win a ticket to the World Finals so there is that. I will run the Rotax Finals this year since it’s in Indy.

Lastly KA100 at Masters weight (sometimes 400lbs) just isn’t fun for me. Rotax Masters is normally 380ish. So more power and lighter than KA.

Lastly, lastly unless you are racing OK-N STARS I wouldn’t have it as my only engine package. I’m guessing you’ll want to actually race people and not just be out there chasing shifters for fun.

2 to stay on a budget. 4 because it’s badass.

2 Likes

I would eliminate options 1 & 3. It seems you have an interst in life beyond KA, so maybe only keep that as a last resort. OK-N is cool, but I think it will get old if you’re racing against another class of kart.

My bias is towards shifter, it’s just more fun. It’s possible to come by a decent used complete for $6k, but new(er) stuff will dwarf that number. Aside from up front costs, the main difference will be tire consumption.

If budget remains inflexible, then Rotax sounds like a great option. Less maintenance than KA, and faster.

2 Likes

I say Rotax. Esp. since it’s growing in the NE. I trust it will be a sub-class in roadracing again soon also, which is a perfect environment for it… I just wish they’d switch to a tilly style carby. I don’t like fixed jets.

2 Likes

@Ruppdartkart Um, did you read his post at all? Staying local, not chasing events all over the country. Keeping costs per event DOWN, not 1500-3000 per weekend (per the AEKL website).

4 Likes

I see it got hidden, but I’m guessing he was once again shilling the slow, lame, expensive e-karting that has little base and even less excitement :slight_smile: I think the move is to stop giving him attention all together and just keep flagging the responses, he’s just a troll.

aaaaanyway, thank you for the advice @KeslerDesignWorks @Muskabeatz @Ted_Hamilton @Chuck_Goodson !! It does seem like rotax is a pretty attractive option for what I’m looking for. I briefly considered DD2 in my head, but how specific that is and still slower than shifter isn’t great unless I came across an unbelievable deal.

P.S. I would be running at Sr weight (old enough for masters, competitive and thin enough for sr!), and I wonder if the fixed jetting on rotax might actually be an advantage for me - I’m pretty good at tuning!

3 Likes

Jetting is what it is. Carb is pretty locked down, but advantages can be found with jet size/needle height/float height.
I like the spirit. I’m trying to work my way towards running Senior/Pro shifter for next year. Master’s if I don’t get the seat time I’m hoping for. I will say at the Rotax races for a ticket the real killers come out to race :sweat_smile:

1 Like

I’m in same boat, but in KA100 country…unless I want X30 spending etc. (I don’t.) If Rotax were to get its’ own class for RR I’d buy one, but at now $4k or whatever it is, I’ll stick with the winning KA I have…

1 Like

I vote for direct drive because…I don’t know why.

Familiar with them mechanically, but how do they compare to drive to a TaG kart with the absence of the clutch? I’ve always associated these with the Senna era and Formula A iirc.

1 Like

Simone posted the hours in this post.

Rotax sounds a good idea, just be overconfident on abusing the use hours. Have seen many disasters because of that. Grand Finals ticket is a nice addition if you feel like going abroad, unless it’s in Bahrain because of the travel expenses.

1 Like

Considering the outline you’ve provided, i wouild 100% stick to rotax. Not only will you have spare parts availble as it seems that your entourage runs them, they’re also bassicaly indistructible.

I of course bias towards OKN (my baby), but finding spares for 1) an OKN (which doesn’t appear to be widespread where you are to begin with) and 2) a Vortex (the least populated brand amongst the OKN class) is probably not worth it from a risk reward standpoint.

Also, starting by yourself if you’re not really really really used to it is a pain in the ass. Being pushed is super easy, nonetheless.

1 Like

A proper Super A can only be described as “violent.” In every direction. I don’t mean that pejoratively, just that it’s so quick to do everything that it takes some getting used to. I’ve not driven a TaG in a clutchless format, so hard to say if it would feel the same, but even the ‘low inertia’ clutches make them sluggish.

Everyone should try a proper direct drive.

We have a Rotax at 100 hrs. Seriously. And it hasn’t really fallen off… It’s become somewhat of a fond experiment now, and hopefully not too expensive of one.

3 Likes

David depending on what you decide, if you are confident on doing engine work you can also consider doing the Rotax dealer/engine class and getting certified to re-seal engines. I’ll be doing the class this Summer and can get you in contact with the boys on getting it done.
I’ll have engines here soon, but I’m gonna guess you have a dealer near you if you have a decent field anyways.

1 Like

I will keep that in mind, thank you!

At least for competitive use all Rotax engines here don’t pass 50 hours, except Micro and Mini.

That’s why the local dealer when one engine exploded he changed the 50 hours duration to 40, then to 35 and later stopped altogether saying that.

1 Like

How about this?

1 Like

I’m not saying I recommend it….lol Now it’s kinda’ a ‘do we dare?’ challenge….

1 Like

Check out my thread on PocketBikePlanet… I’m developing a new pocketbike frame, with a IAME M1 Bambino engine…swapping on a performance exhaust. But I think the OP wants to stay on 4 wheels…

2 Likes