unpacked my new clutch today. I installed it as per the supplied instructions, but I need to ask whether the needle bearing inside bearing race / sleeve is what the crank bolt tightens onto. So this is the black tube that slides inside the needle rollers to run on.
When all in place the bearing sleeve pokes out of the drum by about 1/16th to 1/8th inch. 1mm to 2mm in metric. My concern is whether the torquing of the bolt will crush, warp, distort the bearing race.
I have seen some install videos but none are conclusive in vision or explanation.
Yes, this is the piece that gets tightened onto. Theoretically, you want it exactly even with the end of the crank so that it tightens up without distorting. Realistically, it can handle some overhang. If you think you have too much, take out the giant black spacer on the inside and replace with some thinner shims/spacers.
Dont be tempted to run it sloppy/with end play because this can cause clutch to damage the crank.
Yes, the key broke off from improper/loose clutch installation. It also flared up the edge of the keyway on the crank which then had to be filled down.
reading the OP, i have that little bit of the black sleeve sticking out the OP mentioned, as well, and that’s the play i get. running inboard, the clutch assembly with the shoes in it sticks off the end of the shaft a little bit, and the super thick washer tends to get dished out inward over time. but i still never have any issues.
I put a thin 5/16 flat washer in there to prevent the big washer from getting too dished. I’m sure if you torque the bolt to spec then that isn’t an issue but I’m guilty of using the battery powered impact to remove and install it.
What I have done thus far is take the thin silver washer that is per instructions next to the black inside chamfered spacer out, then I have moved the thin silver washer to inside the grease splash disk so it doesn’t concave.
So the overall width is minimised but the grease disk won’t indent I figure.
