Hi guys, i wanna know how much cheaper briggs karting is compared to series like Rotax or Ka100. Also how much faster does a briggs kart feel to a Rental? Is Briggs karting even worth it at that point, if it feels slow.
I am in my first season of 206, so cant speak to the cost difference between the 2 stroke classes, but I have ran my fair share of rentals, so I can compare those.
In a straight line the 206 does not feel much faster than your typical outdoor gas rental. However, the huge weight difference and much stickier tires will make it feel way faster in the corners.
I have stuck to a shoestring budget. I picked up a used Ignite, and needed a fresh motor after we developed an oil leak on the bottom end. Besides for needing a new motor my costs have been pretty reasonable, only needing a few sets of tires for the different series I have ran in, and general wear and tear stuff like clutch springs, oil, gas etc.
may i ask how much you have paid so far and how much you are expecting to pay for the whole season?
Axles, spindles, steering columns, tires, straightening a chassis - all cost the same whatever you run. My local track has a very strong 206 field and the last race had nearly 50 entries (46) in the 206SR class alone. They did not split the field, so there were a lot of people buying a lot of parts at the end of the day. There is no push-back enforcement at this track, and contact is not strongly discouraged like in some series. It’s brutal. It is also very competitive, and you can’t race on used tires and expect to do well, even with the SH2.
So far this year I have bought a couple axles, had the frame straightened a couple times, gone through two steering columns, etc. To be far, my last incident was all on me because I went wide into a barrier. That hit cost me about a grand.
To me, this accounted for a huge unexpected cost. I was not expecting parts and consumables to add up like they have. Entry costs, tires, consumables, and tires have been at least $3,000 this year for 206 for me at the club level.
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206 is the most popular class in the USA right now. If you’re stepping up from rentals into karting, 206 is the route to go. While it might not have that “oomph” a 2 cycle has, the racing is super tight and cut throat. Some of the best drivers in the nation do both 2 cycle and 4 cycle racing.
Also, in terms of cost, the start up costs and disposables will be cheaper than 2 cycle.
Hoping my wife doesnt see this haha. My general costs:
Used Ignite K3 (Unknown year) $2,500
TS Racing LO206 $1,200
Misc Tires $1,000 (I have ran in series with 3 different tire compounds, plus an exhibition ice race, this would be quite a bit lower if I stuck with one series.)
Additional sprockets and clutch parts $150
Entry fees $600 (including pit passes)
Consumables (gas oil etc) $50
So far I have spent about $5-5.5k. I already had a truck to use, as well as safety equipment from other racing. YMMV
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Key differences:
Initial motor cost difference:
KA100 ~ 3500 race prepped new
LO206 ~ 1000 race prepped new
Motor maintenance cost differences are substantial.
KA100 ~ $100 per hr run time (assuming top-end every 10 hours and full every 40 hours)
LO206 ~ $15 per hour (assuming new head gasket and valves every 3 hours which is crazy)
Fuel and oil
KA100 ~ $30 per gallon at 2 gallons per hour => $60 per hour
LO206 ~ $3 per gallon at 1 gallon per hour and 1 qt oil at $15 every 1-2 hours => $10 per hour
Tires
KA100 ~ $250 tires every other club weekend => $100/hr (you can still practice on them)
LO206 ~ $250 tires when worn totally out => $25/hr (we ran 6 race weekends per set at club and got replacements from the dumpster!!!)
Chain
KA100 ~ $50 o-ring chain good for several days ~ 3 hours, $35 HTZ good for 1 day => assume $20 per hour
LO206 ~ $35 HTZ good for half a season => assume $3 per hour
Total estimates will vary based on goals, so don’t take any of this as gospel. They are rough numbers based on a mix of practice, club, and higher level regional competition. The higher level will drive costs up as you won’t push stuff as far.
Total KA100: $250-300 per hour
Total LO206: $45-60 per hour
None of that accounts for crash damage…which will happen.
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You need to be more specific on this. That looks like a home valve job and then KA big name builder prices. That skews this number a lot. If I’m paying my normal KA builder and then using a top 206 guy, my KA cost is less on maintenance.
That actually looks a little low for even valve/spring/gasket cost, too.
What are you doing to your chains that they don’t last longer. I get at least a season on my KA. Lube with BelRay after every session. Depending on how you set up your 206 there is an increased chance of damage to chains and sprockets since it is more in the middle of the kart and susceptible to offs and kerbs. This cost is a draw.
For the OP:
There is no doubt 2 strokes are more expensive and no doubt they are faster. KA and 206 use the same tires and will last similarly, Rotax and other TAG is a softer tire and will wear much faster. All these classes are competitive, does the speed affect your enjoyment vs costs? Thats for you to make your own determination.
I’m new to motorsports, but my general impression—from reading and those more experienced—is that lower horsepower is better to learn how to drive because you have to learn to maintain your momentum to be fast. Then add horsepower once you have the driving skills. So 206 for karting; Miata for cars.
And as mentioned by others, lower horsepower is way cheaper. I’d rather drive slower and learn faster for less money.
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It’s a small difference, but definitely don’t need a new chain for KA every weekend. I mean, I literally pulled a chain out of my toolbox the other day that had been smashed on the ground in a crash (and had about 8 weekends on it) and ran it all day. I also have never run an o-ring chain on KA, though I know some people like to for the security. I can’t recall the last time I had a chain fail on me though. Any time my chain falls off it’s usually my fault.
So that’s $7 saved. 
The other consumable stuff is pretty close.
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Only time we ever replaced a 206 chain was damage from an off, which was surprisingly rare. A plastic chain guard did wonders to minimize it for us.
On the KA, the HTZ chains stretch and start to wear sprockets and drivers after 2-3 days for us. The O-rings can last much much longer, we run them for practice and club races, but definitely not a season. If I am spending $1500 for a regional race weekend (all-in) then I will throw the fresh chain on it after 5-6 Friday practice sessions or before Sunday H3 and Finals.
We cord our rear tires much quicker with KA than 206. Typically 4-5 long practice days, or 3 race weekends, and one of the tires starts to break down. Performance wise, the new compound stays stable for a good while once past the initial drop-off. We run a new set for qualy sessions on regional weekends because its worth a couple tenths for lap 2-5 or so. Last weekend the TSRS field was 0.2 from 1 to 12, so it most definitely mattered.
If club racing for fun, run them until you see the diagonal cord line showing!
how much does it cost to run per weekend?
Considering in my country rotax Senior is about 4k per weekend with a good team, so how much would it be for a Briggs Senior here? Any Predictions?
I think you need to explain further on what situation you are looking for.
Arrive and drive?
National or regional event with a top team?
Local event or series with a team?
Local event or series with your own equipment?
I think the point is with your own equipment, the costs are quite low for 206 relative to other motors. BUT, the karts and consumables are basically the same.
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So im running Club Level, with one team, which hosts the Briggs club themselves, so everyone runs for them. Not my equipment, its their kart, i know to rent a kart for the weekend its about 200 dollars here. Basically Arrive and drive.
I depends greatly on the level of competition you are pursuing. You can spend very little on LO206 if you are only pursuing club level recreational racing.
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In regard to lap time difference here at Pitt Race:
Rental (Gx270/Birel N35): 72 seconds
Senior Medium 206: 63 seconds
Senior KA: 56 seconds
Senior Rotax: 54 seconds
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^this. Run a season on the engine without touching it. Maybe…. MAYBE refresh the valves midway which is a feasible DIY. Run on other people’s take off tires that are often free.
The most noticeable difference between rentals and a “racing” 206 is the handling. Shedding 70lbs and going to a racing tire is a big change.
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Was chatting with some customers recently and one made a comment about spending $8000 this year on club KA racing (including the engine purchase) while another who is a very competitive Masters drivers said that’s what he has spent after 4 years including upgrading to a nice used chassis last year.
Your budget is what you want to make of it. You can spend crazy or can spend what you are comfortable with.
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