How well do 3D printed (plastic) parts hold up on a kart?

It’s a resin system (SLS printing) instead of an extruded plastic (FDM printing). This material is very comparable to ABS and high temp. You can mix resins and adjust UV cure times to tailor the material. First attempt didn’t make it through session one today. Was wear resistant but brittle as glass.

I’m down.

Whatever factor(s) need adjusting to impart flexibility, my guess is the abrasion wear resistance will be in the balance.

A lot of cool parts here. Does anyone have STL or 3d files they wouldn’t mind sharing?

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I’m going to rework my font sliders geometry and work on a new rear chassis slider. Once I’m happy with them I’ll gladly share. Stay tuned.

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Thanks @KeslerDesignWorks

I’ve started a collection on Thingiverse. Perhaps I can add yours after you are done. Thanks.

Karting - Collections - Schmevn - Thingiverse

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I love my SLA printer. My FDM may have bigger build platform, but the SLA comes out nice. I need to work on some skids one of these days soon. Tired of tearing up my frame.

Clayton, what resin are you using? I’ve had good luck with Siraya Fast 80% and Blu 20%, seems to take a lot of brittle out.

OK I was literally thinking about these items I posted last year while in COVID quarantine today… and then the topic got bumped :thinking:

Here is my fuel pump raiser copycat design for LO206. I did print in PLA+, it actually hold together whole summer, but the bottom where contact the plate got melt at the end of summer. If you print in PLA, you need to check the bolt quite often.

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I currently use Phrozen “ABS like” resin. Really great stuff, but clean up and long cure time kinda suck. Has great mechanical properties and I use it for all sorts of odds and ends. Made some parts for overlanding that live in the engine bay of my Raptor and so far so good. I’ll give mixing in the Blu on my next run of skids a try.

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I’ll have to try the Phrozen. I have a buddy that swears by it. Half the fun is finding the right settings. :smiley:

What are the comparative advantages/disadvantages of SLA v. FDM? I understand that FDM has finer resolution & integrity might be better due to the cured extrusion, but is also messy & the machines tend to be smaller, thus limiting the size of what can be made.

I’d like to be able to make frame sliders like this,

so strength & size are requisite parameters for what I’d want to be able to potentially make.

PLA is printed with FDM printers.

Typo. I meant SLA v FDM. Although there are others, these 2 seem to be the most common commercially available types for the hobby/home shop market.

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New tool for 206 float ball height, speed up the adjustment process a little bit.

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I like the concept, but can you get that printed within an acceptable tolerance? The places I looked at were +- 0.5mm

Maybe hard on a hobby level FDM print, should be a easy job for hobby level SLA print or any industry printer.

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