I need help asap😅

How the hell do i get this broken screw out of the hole😅

And witch of this carbs is the newest one. Im trying to decide witch one i want to race with; )


Flatten the surface with a small diamond burr until you have a flat enough area in the center to hit with a center punch. Drill with small bit. Use a screw extractor to take it out

Any other way? I dont have a extractor as of now and im going to italy tmrw😭

Not really. You can try and hit it with a small flat head screw driver until you create a slot, deep enough to gain some purchase with a screwdriver. High chance to damage the threads around it though

Any shop will have an extractor kit, trackside too…so the other option is to mount the other carb and have the troubled one fixed by somebody with the tools

I also got a new engine yesterday and i think the cylinder is new…


ThiThis??

Thanks alot great succes!!

3 Likes

Nice!

Get a screw extractor set when you can, it’s similar to a tap set, but it’s left hand threaded so you go in counterclockwise, pulling the screw out instead of in. It will save you in future cases when the screw has loctite or it’s hard to get out

2 Likes

The newer one is 222, but only a few by a few weeks. The first 2 represents the year 2022 and the second and third digit represent the week of the year they were build.

3 Likes

Does that make the 815 in the first picture the 15th week of 2018?

Thanks for the answer! Does that mean that the one that starts with 8 is made in 2018?
And i noticed that the older one when i put the jetting screws full in its level like horizontal but the new one when its fully closed its like a V is this normal?

Yes, that’s correct about the code beginning with 8 being 2018. I’m not sure I understand what you are saying about the jetting screws. Can you upload pictures?

Im not acually home right now. But its like in different places when on zero. Is this normal?

All our x30 carbs have the screws set differently when screwed in fully. Mark the closed position as a reference.

1 Like

Yes, that’s correct. When seated to 0, the needles are sometimes in a different position from one carb to another, but the turns open from that fully seated point should be pretty close to the same. You may get some variation of a few minutes. Be careful not to overseat the needles when going to zero because you can over-compress the o-ring. That shouldn’t affect performance (unless you realy get aggressive and damage it), but it could minutely affect setting.

1 Like