I don’t have one? That’s a drawback for me 
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Right now $1,700 and you could be the proud owner of a brand new one from Comet!
I honestly haven’t heard anything negative yet. Maybe they’ll blow up at Joliet.
For those who ran the KA100 with USPKS this year, did you only use the 11t clutch drum, or did you use the 10t as well? For the clutch, how was it’s longevity? Did you have to replace the hub, drum or bearing?
I think we ran the 11 all year. And no clutch maintenance.
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In my area the 11T sprocket is rarely used, just about always it is replaced with the 10T from new. Our tracks require a rear sprocket in the high 70’s to mid 80’s even with the 10t front. With a sprocket that big it feels like you are carving a groove in the racing line. I assume our tyre/rim combination is the same vertical height as the U.S.
Apart from keeping the clutch clean every 5 hours or so no clutch maintenance has been required in the 30+ hours I’ve ran mine.
Starter brushes can give some grief when the hours are on the high side. They are pretty easy to replace, so it is not that big an issue.
Ran both 10 and 11 during the year. NO clutch maintenance on the 3 engines we ran other than a cleaning when we would change the driver gear.
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Thanks for all the info. If I could, I’d like to pump for a little more to maximize practice time.
For gearing, how far did you differ from your ratio from a KT-100 or X30?
With the 10T front I stayed around the same gearing from our “Clubman Spec” Yamaha KT.
Two schools of thought here (AUS)-
- Keep your Low RPM in the right window and don’t worry so much about your Top RPM. So if you can, run a smaller rear sprocket.
- Get your RPM’s as high as possible. There are racers here getting their KA’s to over 16K RPM (something I can’t do)
In the past, I have been tuning for 15+K top RPM- which has been working, but have changed to trying to keep my low RPM to 7-8K which at my track at works out to ~14.5K Hi RPM. I do have to watch my technique more, but the plus is, i am not being left behind on the straights.
I wont claim to have made up massive amounts of time. But it did prove to me that there is more than one way to set up a kart to get best times. And I think not reving the engine so hard must be good for engine life, but time will tell on that.
Gearing was one of the big things we played with a lot this year being that the KA was new. I never saw any time improvement from revving it over 15.2k. The engine already has enough bottom end that on many tracks, you gain nothing by spinning it hard and lugging it with low RPM was a better way to go. The only issue with that is it was difficult to race with, as it was so hard to maintain momentum during overtaking or defending.
I can’t recall exactly how it was comparing to the X30 or Yamaha on most tracks in terms of gears.
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Does it seem like interest in the KA is spreading to other areas, or is just building a foundation with USPKS?
There’s a little interest up in MN. But mostly by racers running USPKS 
Clubs around here are taking interest. And it’ll be in the Route 66 regional series next year as well.
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Aaaaand WKA is pushing it hard next year too:
https://www.worldkarting.com/pitboards/free-ka100-engine-package-available-to-the-first-20-entries
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What’s the price difference between paying for all six races, vs just buying the engine out right?
What happens if the engine breaks and you can only compete in 4 of the 6 events? 
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That would be good information to have the PR huh?
That’s what I’m saying. I wish that these programs wouldn’t leave out key information that would 1) help them sell more, 2) stop people from having to ask stupid questions.
IAME East has them for $2,395.00
@DavinRS I know a few SoCal series are looking to open classes up for the KA and Rok. Although, from what I’ve been reading on a number of groups is the general disinterest in buying something new.
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