This will sound counter productive. But you will need to unbolt the two bolts that go into the steering support. Move it forward but turn it around to move it back.
Brake rod. you can just cut it. Leave the nut on it so you can spin it off after the cut to make sure the thread is good.
Mychron can be hard wired to the battery, just order the cable. Then you don’t need a battery, there’s a blanking plate you can buy but if you search google you’ll find 3D printing files for free download to print one.
You need a new brake rod anyway. A bent one will break through fatigue failure.
I would also recommend an airplane control cable to join the pedal to the master cylinder as a backup.
From the internet Sanner racing are a kart shop/ engine builder in California. The actual engine could be one of a number. Common one is the Comer K80. (80cc Italian pull start 2 stroke, red ‘tin’ casings, Tillotson carb front of cylinder) ?Recommended fuel mix 1-16 racing castor oil - best pump fuel available. Mix well . No oil tank on a K 80. Engine pics ?
You can use a piece of all thread rod from any good hardware store and cut it to length for the brake rod - just make sure you get the same size and thread so it is compatible with your hardware.
OTK makes different size rods as well if you wanted to just buy one. But I’d just do the all thread myself. If you really need a stock one though, measure the length needed after the pedal relocation and order one. Lots of West Coast guys can help you out with OTK parts.
Don’t worry about the bend - it’s necessary to clear the tie rod with the pedal riser assembly. Do 10-15 of them a year and they are all like that.