High 1:20s at road Atlanta is probably my best comparable lap time for people. Engine fire took the car down and instead of just fixing that damage I went full retard and tore it down bare unibody and been putting it back together
Club or full? Love that track in sim.
Full. I’d have to look back and find the time sheet. It might have been 1:30. But it was moving. But a guy in a civic always makes me look dumb. He’s down to 1:19 or so in a production chassis as we aren’t allowed to go tube chassis
Nice. I always wondered wether I’d have the balls IRL to brake as late as I do at end of back straight in sim there. Probably not!
Upon further reflection, data is low priority for you right now. But maybe something to amuse yourself over the winter. But you are technically year round karter in PNW (kinda cold and wet).
No. It’s terrifying. Especially when you see cars go off down there. I saw 160 on for speed on the back stretch. That was less aero and 250 less horsepower.
This is the graph I found for rpm. I did rpm vs speed for a single lap. It looks like the mychron doesn’t like it when it’s on the limiter
Ok so overlay a good lap on a questionable one. What can you infer? And so on.
If you want splits/theoreticals, it’s best to break the track up into 3-5 sections using that original screen of your analysis you posted. One of the YouTube videos in the AiM data series explains how to set that track map up properly, it’s a little unintuitive to explain via forum post.
As a driving coach/data guy, I would tend to agree with Dom, that data is probably on the farther end of the technical spectrum when it comes to karting, and at your current level you would probably gain more from understanding the actual mechanical functions of each adjustment on your chassis and how that changes with driving style etc. than you would gain from trying to dive into your data too much right now. Data analysis has only really gotten big with the average karter within the past decade or so here in the States. I didn’t touch or use data for my first 10 or so years of racing, and we did just fine.
Data obviously can tell you where you suck and where you’re good, but if you don’t know how to change the kart or your driving to fix those things, you’re sort of just looking at lines on a screen.
Of course, all that being said, if you enjoy learning about it and trying to figure it out on your own, by all means have at it.
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For sure. This is a time killer at this point. Only one race a month. So lots of time to over analyze and see if I can find shortcomings gives me something to do.
And for sure I still have a lot to learn for setup. While I really wanted a dry race I was terrified as I have zero dry experience. Setup seems good in the rain. But until I find some dry days to get some laps in I’ll keep hoping for rain races. Lol
Davin Sturdivant hooked up with Roger from Aim to do a series on using mychron data. Start here. Bring beer.
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XOXOXO. You’re the best. 
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I missed the bring beer part. It’s like you know me. Lol. How else do you do research?
What topic is best for figuring out how to download and look at data for noobs?
I’m not great at it but basically follow his series sequentially. I got a lot out of it and it’s relatively easy to follow along. Also, aim youtube has some stuff too…
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See? Someone finally figured it out. Just watch the videos in order. (I’m teasing, but I give everyone the same advice.)
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That’s your GPS driven line. I cannot remember if blue is coasting or constant speed. Less blue is better if coasting.
You can select multiple laps and it will overlay each lap (in all tabs, not just gps).
Compare the fastest driven line to an average one. Was the difference in line or something else?
Good day from the desert. I’d kill for a wet race 
looks not too shabby from the vids you posted
I’m kind of new also, late starter, only last couple of years did I really get into it. Data wise I agree don’t get too fixated. The best thing you can look at is your gps trace, and split times. Don’t get hung up on theoretical fastest but look to see which sector you drove significantly faster compared to the reference (fastest) lap, overlay both laps and look at your line at that point, you can see on the rpm graph where you got on the power. You can also export your GPS trace into google earth to see it exactly overlaid on the track.
Overtaking - either exit to a straight faster by getting on the gas earlier, or brake late up the inside or both but remember to exit onto the correct racing line so the other kart can’t come back at you. Maybe I’m teaching egg sucking there
Set up - you should be able to find spindle king pin hardware that will either fit or can be made to fit. I run two karts, a 2014 Energy for recreation and a 2019 CRG for racing, both IAME X30 rocket ships. The energy has an eccentric bolt affair at the spindles - it’s ok but you’re always affecting camber when you adjust caster and vice versa. CRG can adjust each independently. T-kart web magazine has some pretty detailed explanations of various set up options and their effects.
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Excellent discussion folks. Very informative for me and my son. Lindsey would you call me when you have time - 956 612 5500… need to ask you a thing or two on wet running setup.
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I mean I can only tell you what I have learned. As I am very new to this still. But feel free to shoot me a message with some questions and we can go from there. This place is a great resource of information
I know… but your outing in the wet is what we were unable to do last week. It costed me a fried clutch this time. We have zero experience and decided to try, but short of putting on the wet rubber and covering the carb intake everything else is an unknown. I know the gearing is a main factor - what is the thinking here… short enough to assure lockup and appropriate rpms for adequate torque? What else? Do you all run a softer set clutch? You seem to have the same cover for the carb… I struggled with that - it ran very rich and I could not lean it out… what are the steps to consider and in WHAT ORDER when from a humid dry day you all of a sudden face a downpour and you are to line up on the grid in 20 minutes.
I know this is probably so elementary for you all but I am afraid it is much cheaper to ask than to try to figure it out without asking…
Thanks for help.
So if rain is forecast go ahead and toss the cover on. I haven’t noticed much of a difference in tuning with the rain cover on.
I’d start with putting the clip at p3. Adjust your idle accordingly. Make sure you float is set properly.
For rain toss on rain tires. And narrow the rear and see how it feels. I make no carb adjustments for rain.