Narrowing the front track reduces front grip pre apex. Start by just shifting spacers inside and increasing front track first. If you haven’t max’d out on spacers then you definitely don’t need to spend on front hubs and new wheels yet.
1 Like
Are the cassette pinch bolts loose or the grub screws that hold the axle in the bearings? If it’s the pinch bolts the axle shouldn’t move a 1/4” from side to side. I’d spend some time going through the kart and see if your dealing with other issues.
2 Likes
This sounds like some bigger issue. I mean at 40 degrees the kart is going to have no grip for a few laps, it’s going to feel like driving on ice. But if you’ve been driving it for 7 years and still spun out 7 times in practice I think something is maybe mechanically wrong with the kart. Check for cracks or bends.
It doesn’t really make sense that you’re mainly dealing with understeer but spinning out. Those are opposite issues.
2 Likes
Or “push/kick” maybe where the rear snaps once the front finds grip.
1 Like
Yeah it was the pinch bolts, they were almost falling out of the cassettes. I’m in the process of totally gutting it right now! Do cassettes wear out over time?
Thanks TJ, I’m going to go over every nook and cranny to see if anything is cracked on the frame. I’m hoping it was just the loose cassette bolts. The kart was snappy loose in the middle to exit of the corners in practice. Then I made the adjustments and it became 10x worse that’s when it was like being on ice and I totally gave up for the day
It’s certainly possible if they were excessively loose and the bearings were moving around more than usual. Also, I would imagine in sand and dirt got in there, that would accelerate the process.
1 Like
Thank you, I’m going to inspect them tonight after work
Worth noting, setting driving issues aside, that switching from DSM to hub mount, or from aluminum to magnesium wheels is not a small change – you will notice a difference, even in cold weather!
However, if you continue to spin a lot, you could have the best handling go kart or the worst handling go kart, it sounds like some more track time and coming in after each spin and breaking down why it happened is more vital, and overall more cost effective. It may be hard to do at first, but maybe chat with a local guy or gal that gets around the track pretty well. Often they like to talk about how they drive certain corners.
1 Like
Thanks Eric! I’m probably going to get a set of mm magnesium wheels, I need a new set anyways since I’m going to need rain tires at the ready next season. The DSM and mm wheels are both $269 so I may as well make the switch. I appreciate everyone for the help thank you!
Slight (or not) tangent, if everyone doesn’t mind, what is the change going from mag to aluminium wheels of same size?
A guy I spoke to said that he preferred aluminium wheels as being more flexible and forgiving. He’s the only person I’ve spoken to that seems to even consider aluminium in the dry.
1 Like
I’m still skeptical on claims that wheels have different “stiffnesses” in any meaningful, measurable way.
I will say that different materials (and wheel volumes) can affect how the tire pressures develop during a race though.
1 Like
There isn’t any formal data that the manufacturers will share on this topic, but there is definitely a difference in handling between various rims.
Generally, a spun aluminum rim is “free-er” than a cast magnesium rim, although this really depends on the rim! The OTK MXC and MXL are notable exceptions to this.
Many American karts take to spun rims quite well, whereas many higher horsepower or softer chassis you don’t see them used as much. For a long time they were quite common in use. For a Briggs, a low horsepower application, getting rid of grip you don’t absolutely need is always a great thing.
Interesting eric, so what kind of rim do you think would best suit a yamaha 4 hole can kart? Aluminum?
So far I cannot find any cracks or anything bent. Just a dirty old kart in need of some TLC
this is the right rear tire
And both fronts
Left rear
As frustrating as it sounds, the type of rim that will suit a Yamaha kart the best is dependent on many factors.
One of the biggest will be your track—is it a greasy track or is it tacky? Are you a tall driver or are you short? What chassis are you running? What seat? What axle? The list goes on and on.
I will say this—generally, a Yamaha regardless of can is a fairly slow low horsepower kart. So, it follows you may want to consider ways to alleviate significant resistance to the engine to move the kart. Aluminum rims would be a solid, low cost place to start. Would MXCs be even better? Maybe, maybe not. Likely if your kart is a margay, many seem to play with aluminum spun vs. the Douglass cast or magnesium rims.
My tentative guess is on a cold track, the Douglass mags would keep the kart fairly free but also give you a bit more grip and sustain that grip than a spun aluminum wheel. But, again, it really depends on the chassis and all the other things we outlined.
You can also run different rims front vs back, depending on what you need in terms of grip.
1 Like
Generally, aluminum is going to be softer and heat up faster. Mag wheels are going to be stiffer and stay cooler.
Aluminum wheels in any high horsepower application is basically asking for the kart to fall off halfway through a run. The mag wheels keep the tire operating in it’s temp window better.
2 Likes