Hello guys. My new LO206 is now waiting for a break-in. Briggs & Stratton suggests using break-in oil for break-in and Redline 20w racing oil after the break-in. But I’ve heard that some people are using Briggs 4T oil in both cases. What are your opinions? Thank you!
I’d follow the B&S recommendation, but what do I know? I’m haven’t touched a 4-stroke in years.
The racing oil will work too good in lubricating the cylinder wall and will take a long time for the ring to seat. Would not use a break in oil with any type of load on the engine.
I used redline break in oil. High zinc can’t hurt anything. Then switched to redline 20wt. Run that ever since
I was recently confused about this too. The internet gives conflicting answers. Went to my club shop and asked and they use Castrol 10w30 for break in and then 4t (or amsoil dominator here in Canada) on all their team engines.
When we started out, if we asked the same question to three people at the track, we’d get three different answers. Maybe one of them was right. With the internet, it’s much the same way.
If you have questions on an engine, call or visit an engine builder. Save yourself some time and headaches.
I like this idea especially. Every one of the methods listed have worked for people I guess, so it’s more of a nuance. So, pick an engine builder that you’d like to work with for your periodic top end work etc, see what they recommend and run with that for consistency. Personally I think the consistency is more important than the specifics of what you do.
As Dave Klaus once said “Don’t over complicate it”
Thank you guys! Yes I will go talk to an engine builder and see what they say. I am not sure if I am right. But non-synthetic oil forms a less protective oil film and wears the engine more quickly than the synthetic ones right? If that’s the case, why do some people still use non-synthetic oil for break-in?
Not necessarily. Years ago I raced shifters. The national level builder recommended castor oil. Apparently it did better in scraping protection and other ways. The negative is it is dirty, resulting in more carbon build up. It also came out of solution easy. When racing TaG I moved back down to synthetic because it was good enough that I did not need to live with the negatives.
Here is a video that will help you understand so I don’t have to type it all out for you. It’s all got to the viscosity.
Which mean the hotter you engine runs the heavier the oil you need. Never change oils. Always keep the same kind at all times. Never switch.
The reason for non synthetic on breakin is to speed up the seating of the rings. How much of a difference it actually makes I don’t know.
its important to note that a four stroke OHV engine is a lot different to what’s in a car. The oil is a splash feed, so ideally the oil needs different anti foaming properties. Also, air cooled engines see very high localized temperatures compared to a watercooled motor.
For these reasons it’s best to stick with something specific like the amsoil 4t. This should not be confused with the PAG based oils which absorb moisture and need to be changed super often. Arguably they sacrifice longevity for a small power gain. That’s fine for an engine that gets teared down all the time (eg clones) but kinda defeats the purpose of your 206.
Castor oil is a different story all together of course as it’s used in a two stroke but never in a four. It’s based on castor beans vs petro chemicals. You can’t really compare the two. Although you could run it for fun I guess.
When castor oil gets (very) hot, it breaks down into a smooth ash, a dry lube of sorts. This gives a little added protection when you’re running on the edge temps wise. leaded fuel helps in this way as well, except that the deposit is always there.
Here’s a video from Briggs.
Here to also is a good video that really goes in depth. Of karting oil.
Thanks a lot guys! And sorry for the late response.