I am new to karting and this is my first post, so I hope I’m in the right place on the forum. I just bought a new to me TB kart with a LO206 engine. It’s a 2022 model. I am having to install a larger seat in it to accommodate my bigger butt. I removed to engine to do and found that the chain has been rubbing on the right seat strut pretty badly, I has worn away quite a bit of the metal on the strut as well as the chain pins on that side. The mount is as far to the out-board side that it will go. Any ideas on a way to fix it. I tried bending the strut bout no joy. It is ridged a rock. I can’t continue to run it this way.
Are you running the chain inboard or outboard? It should be run inboard, and this problem goes away?
Alternatively (in order of my preference):
- Switch to #219 for slightly skinnier chain if you’re running #35.
- Torch and leverage can be used to move/bend seat strut
- Another motor mount can be procured that allows more outboard spacing.
- If it’s a flat mount, see if reversing it gets you more throw outboard.
- Strut can be sawed off and sanded smooth and a removable model installed
First off, which engine mount? If it’s not an odenthal, then I recommend getting one as they can offset to the right more than some others without getting too flexy. In my opinion running outboard is fine, it’s our standard way of running for full size chassis.
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I am running a #35 chain with 17-59 gearing and it is inboard. I had a suggestion that I run the clutch inboard
But I would have to buy a new clutch to do that. I had to order a new seat and I just bought a trailer to haul the kart on. So that along with buying the kart sorta used up my funds for now. Thanks for the reply.
It’s a 15 degree mount but no name on it. I don’t like it because of the way you have to adjust the chain. It moves on the frame rails. When funds become available I will probably change that along with the gear. It seems too high to me. Thanks for the reply.
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Can you post a pic of the engine installed?
Would moving the engine back 1/2” help?
The chain can be shortened or a longer chain installed if it will get you where you need to be to prevent the rubbing.
How were you trying to bend the seat strut? Maybe a little bit more force is needed.
I wouldn’t hesitate to ask someone at th track to have a look and give you advice. Most racer are happy to help. Especially if you are around on a practice day when they are not rushing to get ready.
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A few thoughts…
You are not going to bend a seat strut by hand, you will need leverage from something such as an axle or pipe. With that said, where its rubbing you likely won’t be able to bend much if it all. As others have pointed out, you need to move either the motors location or the clutch orientation. What clutch are you using?
The mount you have being 15* isn’t helping with the rub either, so you could try a smaller sprocket but this means changing your driver too. Do you have different gearing options? a 16/56 is similar in ratio and would lower the height of the chain.
Some other things. Make sure your chain is aligned straight and doesn’t have too much excess play up and down.
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I decided to take the clutch assembly apart and clean it. When I went to take the bolt out of the end of the crank. I noticed the lock washer wasn’t collapsed. I just unscrewed the bolt with my fingers. It appears the clutch assembly had backed off the crank and the chain rubbing up against the strut was keeping it from backing off more. I reinstalled the clutch and tightened the bolt. Remounted the engine and chain. Is this enough clearance for it not to hit the strut?
That’s enough for me. But if you want more get an odenthal. Personally I’d recommend getting one anyhow. That mount you have is very flexy when you offset that far.
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As was suggested earlier, you can flip that clutch assembly around to run in board and will have all the clearance in the world there. That is a very very normal to do on the LO206 package. Its how my son’s LO206 was setup when he ran that class.
Here is an example of an inboard mount from another KartPulse thread:
Great sheet showing the 2 ways the Hilliard clutch can be mounted up.
You want the motor as close to the seat as you can safely achieve. It will provide the best balance that way. So you have to balance out clearance of the rear sprocket with the middle axle bearing carrier, the chain with the seat post, the seat itself and the clutch (I have seen clutches rub holes in seats), and what the motor mount will accomodate.
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You can certainly do the inboard method, and at one time I preferred that way. What I don’t like is the close proximity to the seat and have had my suit torn and been burned by clutch getting into and tearing through the seat. Anymore I’ll take the extra clearance and ease of use of outboard mounting and have the engine a little further right. Different strokes for different folks, more than one way to do it.
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I just checked - on my kart the gap between the chain and the strut is 2mm. There are no witness marks of contact between the two.
You mentioned the chain was worn on the side that had the contact. I highly recommend replacing the chain, and not using the worn one.
I had a chain let go, and it damaged the frame, the sprocket, and the sprocket hub.
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This looks to me as well. I’m glad you found the cause.
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I know you were worried about loss of metal from the strut but based on what you are explaining and showing in the pic you likely lost very little of the metal and the chain is likely okay.
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I had same issue with a CompKart 4R. I switched to an odenthal and mini gears, no issues now.
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I left the mini gears out of my recommendation only because @Capt.Bob expressed concern about spending more $$$. This is also a tool I have seen people use to change chain clearances on kart frames.
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I painted the strut and run some laps today and all the paint is still on it. It was the clutch bolt being loose that was the culprit.
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