Lo206 Clutch Removal Method

I am new to the Lo206 environment and am looking to do a routine maint. on my clutch.
From the videos I have seen, the motor has to be unbolted from the frame to get to the primary clutch bolt. Would it be easier to drill a hole through the seat so you could run the impact driver on the bolt without engine removal?
I think a plastic hole plug could be available to put in the seat for when you are driving, or just leave the hole open. Maybe just use tape on it to keep the road grime out.
Thoughts?

Just unbolt and move the engine. You probably have to to get the clutch off anyway. You’re gonna make life harder on yourself trying to work between the seat and the engine even if you can.

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Yeah, I’m with @CrocIndy on this one. Removing the motor from the mounts is loosening two bolts and then unscrewing the carb cover/throttle cable part. Our club president has made a LO206 stand that a bunch of us have purchased that holds the motor at an angle making it much easier to perform oil changes on it. It’s basically a rectangle frame welded to two uprights at a 35ish degree with some slight outriggers to stead it. I’d highly suggest that you look at doing something like that instead of drilling a hole in your seat just for a drill attachment. Your body will thank you. It’s so much easier to service the motor when it’s out of the kart.

(Sorry for the messy work bench, this was during winter storage)

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Thanks for the info.
Are stands similar to these available anywhere?
Although my forum post was a question about clutches, I have seen some videos showing Lo206 cases being opened and there is a large case web inside that separates the engine oil in two areas. Does your 35-degree angle facilitate the removal of all engine oil? If the oil drain plug is pulled while the engine is level, it looks like 25% stays in the engine and doesn’t get changed.
I really like the engine stand… Pointers??

Unfortunately I’m away from home for work right now so I’m unable to take measurements of it for you. From what I have gathered from our president is that this design was originally engineered by a dad’n’lad combo in our area who was teaching his kid to weld. So this stand was their first project together. They took some basic angle iron and made it all up… then our club president asked them if he could replicate it and traded the “rights” to it for one of the finished boxed aluminum versions you see in that photo. I haven’t seen anything like it online elsewhere but I’ll message our president to see if he has any for sale. They’re super handy as they place the motor at a nice working angle and the motor mounts below it hold the motor in place and in a position where everything is right there.

To be completely honest, I’m rather new in to all of this and I haven’t actually measured the drainage of oil when performing oil changes but the motor receives the full 400mL of 4T when re-filling. The 35ish degree must be enough to fully drain as plenty of guys here use these stands for their maintenance, the guys who don’t use them have to contend with draining and then tipping anyways, so their mounts are already released… only difference is that the stand helps with having everything accessible for clutch or other motor based maintenance… without having to drill holes in your seat :wink:

Thanks for the update. Looking forward to more info about availability.

Most people just pull the butterflies off and flop the engine over against the side pod to work on the clutch. No complete removal necessary.

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Burpo is right. Two butterflies, a lean, a swivel extension, and an ugga dugga. Clutch is in your hand.

Is there a trick to get this off? Not sure what the piece is called but whatever slides over the crank shaft and has the teeth on it.

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I’d recommend a gear puller of some sort to be on the safe side.

Is it supposed to slide off easily? I haven’t seen anyone else have this issue.

It should slide right off. You’re gonna want to clean the crank up real good with Emory cloth or something similar when you get that off. It’s probably rusty and galded.